Hitchcocks Forum

I split the cases on an early Indian Enfield yesterday, probably a mid sixties one but I haven't been able to get the drive side case off the drive shaft. It is quite a few years since I split one of these but I don't recall any problem getting the crank out. These cases don't have the external oil seal as the later motors have. I had this motor running a few weeks ago but it was wet sumping badly so this is the reason for the strip. Concerning thing was the amount of rust on the flywheels and I'm wondering if the drive side bearing has some rust stopping it coming apart. With these cases you can't see into the drive side bearing like you can with the later ones once you remove the oil seal. I'm reluctant to try pressing it out for fear breaking the case. Any thoughts?

heat norm? , will the crank pull out with the brg still stuck on?

Hi Alan, not sure, I can't remember the setup and if they run 2 bearings or one and also from memory the oil seal which is fitted first before the bearings is a felt one and at this stage I'm also unable to get the bearing distance piece out and this may be part of the problem if it has rusted to the shaft. It is down at my machinist mates place so he can repair the stripped out and then horribly butchered by Indians barrel studs. Not exactly sure how we can repair these except by making up 7/16 whit sleve with the barrel threads in them. Which brings me to my next question, do you know what thread these are so I can try and get a tap? These are the studs used in the Bullet up until the metric ones were introduced in about 2004 I think

Heat & hit

Norm,

the cylinder stud threads are 5/16" bscy (26tpi). Assuming you have removed the engine sprocket spacer, this is the last thing to come off the external side of the bearing then the cranks should just press out. Bit of heat would be helpful but other than this there is no other way.
Chevy

If the early ones are the same as the late Redditch 350's then there two bearings on the drive side, one roller and one ball with a circlip between the two. My crank just tapped out Norm so maybe it's just the rust stopping it.

Thanks Bryan, Chevy and Chris these cases are nothing like the later cases because the crank seal is internal and can't be seen from the outside and I believe it will be a felt sandwich type between a couple of discs. I can't remember if the early ones have 2 bearings but I don't think they do from memory, and it is an odd sort of bearing similar to the timing side one that has no inner shell,and it runs directly on the timing side shaft. With the rotor nut on I have given the shaft a few reasonable taps but there has been no sign of movement. I have soaked the distance piece in penetrene so I will see if that helps in a few days.
Thanks again