Hitchcocks Forum

I need some advice fellas, and I know I can get it here..


I just used an hour to polish up the rear wheel rim and spokes and noticed the chain was hanging rather low. I can't ignore that sort of thing so I got cracking on moving the rear wheel back. A simple job I thought but working on both sides of the bike in the limited dry space I have proved to be a bit of a test. Long story short.. I finally got it done.


But it just occurred to me.. not having a manual to refer to..


How much up and down movement should I have on the chain?

Aw, c'mon lads... 46 views and no reply? I guess nobody knows then...

I did find something in a video on the internet. The guy there reckons 4.5 cm is OK.

I'll go with that.

You should have at least 1/2" of up and down movement when the bike is off the stand and someone is sitting on it. The chain will be looser than this when the bike is on the stand.

Thank you Simon.. looks like I'll have to enlist the wifes help..! I can't sit on the bike and measure at the same time!

HI Exile, It is most important that the chain isn't as tight as a bow string when shocks under full compression..

i decided to conduct a one off experiment when i last fitted a new chain.. I placed a plank of wood lengthways along the seat and used it to support two heavy duty ratchet tie down straps which compressed the shocks to their full extent.. adjusted wheel and chain to very slight slack..

When back on the centre stand the chain had 1.5 inches up and down slack from the centre line.. It looks too slack until you drop the bike back on its wheels and sit on it..

Fyi the indian book says 30mm slack MINIMUM on the stand, i would think this too tight especially if you carry an occasional pillion.. gwilly

Hi Gwilly.. many thanks. 4.5 cm is about 1.5 inches, so I guess the video guy was about right. I don't have any plans on a pillion passenger.. the missus won't get on the bike...!! Suits me, I'm looking for a single saddle at the moment..

I run mine at 1.5 - 2 inches on the centre stand.

If your chain is remotely worn,
inevitably the slack is variable,
hence 2" in one position,rotate
the wheel and it could be 1" in
another position. Go for the
happy meduim with shocks extended.
Depending on the marque,and length
of the swinging arm's arc, some
'bikes are hard to find a happy
comprimise. We're talking worn
chains here.

Perhaps I should have said, the bike's only done 2750 Km so I don't think it's "worn" as such, just a bit stretched, which is inevitable. I've set it up as described above, with about 1½ inches of movement with the bike on the centre stand. Road quality is pretty good here, large potholes don't really exist, so I reckon I'll be OK.


Thanks everyone for the feedback. It's appreciated...

Exile, chains do not stretch. There is far too little power in a superbike, let alone an Enfield, to stretch the metal. What occurs is that the pivot pins wear and/or the lubricant in the pivots is squeezed out or both. Checking the wear in the chain needs the chain to be removed and allowed to sag under its own weight when turned so that all of the pivot pins are vertical ie the chain is on its side. The greater the apparent bend, the greater the wear. At such low mileage as yours it is most likely that the lubricant is being squeezed out of the links. When adjusting remember that it is almost impossible to guarantee that one side of the wheel spindle is pulled back exactly the same amount as the other, and the result is that usually the front sprocket spindle and the rear wheel spindle are no longer parallel. This results in the slack in the chain varying at different points as you rotate the rear wheel. When adjusting the chain make sure you set the slack at the tightest point. Also remember to check wheel alignment to ensure both wheels are truly in line. HTH.