Hitchcocks Forum

Hi I own a 1998 350 enfield bullet and its an indian built import that came over to the uk in 2000, I have changed all the factory fitted light switches for the 1950s style switches ie, a 3 position bakalite type swich(140844 in hitchcocks catalogue)and a dip horn(lu/315630)I have junked the indiactors,engine cut out switch,and the front brake light switch, so now i have the rock bottom ammount of items that you need to be road legal ie all lights, horn, rear brake light switch,just as bikes used to be with the addition of a boyer ignition(4wires).

I have a wiring diagram but nothing makes any sence as the colours do not tally up and I am less than useless with electrics at the best of times.

can any one tell me where i can get a less than simple wiring diagram that has just the minimal emount of wires that is neede just for ignition,charging,lights that is easy to follow I went on line and found a really siple wiring diagram but it was no fo an enfield it was so easy to follow as it had pictures of each item ie, battery,coil,alternator, lights,distributor,and so on showing where each wire went to, Can any ony please help me with any info to rewire my bike, I have now taken the wiring harness off the bike and unwrapped it so i can reuse the old wires and re,code the colours.
Many many thanks
Regards
Gary (Whitey54)

Whitey are you fitting an ignition switch and if so where?

With the expeption of the electronic ignition (that I suppose needs a battery etc.) and possibly the charging (I have a magdyno) this looks like my 1953 Model G. .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Does your Bullet have AC generator or a dynamo? I don't know anything about the AC generator, but here is at least a description of parts of a basic 1950-ies magdyno wiring: .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- The dynamo has 2 terminals F and D. These are connected to F and D on the regulator. E on the regulator is Earth (ground) and A to the amperemeter, and then from the amperemeter and to battery + (if + to ground, of course). .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-

Brake light and horn is very easy, as these two bypass the amperemeter: >>> One wire from battery + to horn to horn switch to ground. >>> One wire from battery + to brake light switch to brake light to ground. .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-

The front and rear light is (of course) connected through the light switch and I can't rememeber all the details at the moment, but all the lights are in series with the amperemeter and the charging circuit.

Here is a diagram for Lucas magdyno: http://en.vintage-motorcycle.com/index. ... 60&limit=0 .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Doesn't seem complete, the regulator box is missing, but maybe it can help a little? .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Here are also some diagrams that may help: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffspicc ... il/?page=6 .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-

Hope this helps a little! Regards, Anders F. R.

Hi many thanks for your kind reply,im not too sure as to what type of charging unit the bike has i assume its an alternator?? there are four wires that come out of the primary cover and conect to the harness. all i did to the bike apart from change the brake/clutch levers,speedo(smiths now)decompress lever, throttle and light switches was that I cut off the stock fitted switches and junked the indicators etc, buy i now need to re,wire the new switches to the original wires but every wiring diagram iv seen does not make any sence at all none of the colours match and the components on the diagram makes no sence either, its so frustrating as its a simple conversion that has now turned into a nightmare there are even less wires now that iv removed the indicators, front light switch, and the cut out switch.
I will try the sites that you kindly sent me and fingers crossed i will get a result.
many thanks again
Kindest Regards
Gary {whitey54}

Hi Anders, it is a 1998 Indian 359 so it has an alternator. I started doing one the same as Whitey about 9 months ago but I got sidetracked and it is only half wired but what I must have established was that I could do it with only 3 wires coming from under the seat up to the headlight. This was after fitting the ignition switch in the right hand toolbox. Hopefully I will get back to it soon

Hi norm many thanks yes iv re.routed the ignition switch from its original place left side on headlight case and its now in the right hand toolbox, iv now striped the harness sleeving and have all wires exposed so i can see whats going on in there, i need to know where the singe black/white wire goes to from the points casing(distributor) also i need to wire up all lights to the two new switches i have to replace the stock ones,all I have done is chop off the old switches so now i have all the wires just hanging out of the head liht case ready to be conected to the two new switches,i wanted to chop out all redundent indicator wires buy as im hopeless with wires im leaving well alone in sure the old harness will be reusable once i know where they all go most of the wires is easy to see where they go ie,they have coloured conection blocks ect, but my main problem is knowing where all the light wiring goes to on the new switches.hope you can help many thanks to all of you that has sent me info i am very grateful to you all
Regards WHITEY54

Hi Whitey. one thing before you do anything you have to either get a 3 wire stator or use the 4 wire stator and fit a Boyer powerbox, my tip would be the powerbox or similar rec/reg that can handle the load. Pull the existing loom out because it is too hard to sort out now. Either strip it down so you can use the wires or buy new wires. I hope you know how to solder and heat shrink wires because you won't be able to complete this if you can't

Gary, I just noticed this little gem "its so frustrating as its a simple conversion that has now turned into a nightmare" who said it was a simple conversion particularly given that you do not know if it has an alternator or not. This is going to be hard.

I'm with Norm, forget about the old colour coding and start from scratch system by system. Earth wires to everything will ensure you maintain good bright lights and don't spark erode your headstock bearings. The lighting circuit is the most complicated bit but not really its just plumbing with electrons. The old fashion Lucas style switch is a complicated looking thing but the toggles are only used for the switched circuit alternator. A system that should be ditched in a heartbeat in favour of a self managing reg/rec so you just need a diagram to show you the power in post (which is not as obvious as it looks) then it's plain sailing. I discovered that a racing braid maker (ropes for flash yachts) could braid up the wiring harness for a few bucks and leave the whole thing looking very couth and 50's. The other thing I recommend is that you solder all the lugs and connectors with electrical solder as this means that you don't get dry joints that can cause failure and at worst fire. Don't use plumbers flux as this will eventually corrode all the wire below the solder. Take your time. If you rush it it will show and it will cause you grief. I've rewired cars and bikes (all old ones) and a few more than once as my first efforts looked like crap. Finally if you do have a good range of wire colours be consistent keep hot wires one colour earth wires another etc and that will make final assembly easier.

Hi simon and thank you too for your kind help i am useless with electrics and when things get to the stage it is now its a nightmare im very grateful to all you guys out there who so kindly send me valuable info
Kndest regards
Gary WHITEY54