Hitchcocks Forum

Has anybody come up with a fairly basic, by the side of the road, method of fault finding on these UCE's. They have 2 complex systems that from what I can see are not easy to test, fuel pump/injection and the electronic ignition. From what it appears a breakdown means a trailer to a dealer who will then just start to replace things till they fix it. Anybody can do that but being able to fault find is what we are all about. Anybody dabbled with them enough to give some pointers

Hi Norm: There is an interesting article in the June Real Classic magazine from the UK, it is mostly posted out, but some newsagents carry it. The writer had a problem where the kickback was so severe it bent the lever, not to mention his foot.
He had an inspection hole drilled over the top of the alternator so he could check the timing; it was spot-on; he traced the problem to the coil which was discharging when it shouldn`t. I don`t have a scanner but I can get it copied and post it to you if you like.

The bike in the article is an Electra X; I don`t know if the timing accessibility is the same as the UCE. Sorry for any confusion.

Hi Leon, Electa X is another kettle of fish and I can see how the timing could be checked through a hole drilled in the outer primary case. It is interesting to note from what I have seen in the Hitchcocks book in the carby conversion of the UCE it looks distinctly like an Electra X rotor and probably TCI unit is used to replace EFI one

There is a sytem of blinking lights that tells you what is wrong if the EFI has problems.
Here’s the quote from the owner’s handbook for the EFI!


With our system, the "Check Engine" light will go on if something is not right.
If that happens, take the following steps.

1. Remove the seat
2. Find the wire that is attached to nothing. This wire comes from the EFI "brain".
3. Touch that wire to the frame or any other earth
4. The check engine light will start to blink in a sequence of long and short blinks. For example, six short and six long - the sequence indicates which component is malfunctioning.
5. Decode the sequence. In the example of six short and six long blinks, the sequence indicates that the crank sensor is not working correctly.
6. a] Check the wiring connection to that device. b] If this clears the blinking, you're done. c] If not, replace the sensor and then you're done. d] If more than one unit is bad, when you clear the first sequence another will start but that is very unusual.

This will result in a self-check by the ECU, which should get back to you with one of a series of "blink codes." i.e., the indicator light will blink with none, one, or more "long" blinks, followed by a number of "short" blinks.

Engine Starts - Long Blinks - Short Blinks

Yes None 6 Throttle Position Sensor
Yes None 9 Intake Pressure Sensor
Yes 1 1 Engine Oil Temp Sensor
Yes 1 5 Oxygen Sensor Heater
Yes 1 7 Oxygen Sensor

No 1 5 Upset Sensor
No 3 7 Ignition Coil
No 4 7 Fuel Pump
No 6 7 Crankshaft Position


Note that in each case a circuit malfunction is indicated.
This could be anything in the indicated sub-circuit, from a problem in the conductors between the sensor and the ECU, a connection, or the sensor itself.

Thus first action would be simply to check and clean relevant connector(s) followed by testing with a simple multimeter set to "ohms" from sensor connector to ECU connector.

If no correction is indicated, next step would be replacing the indicated sensor or load with a known good one.

Thanks Presto, hell of a lot to be said for a set of points and a carby. Don't think I will bother trying to fix them when they break down, best to carry a box of matches

Sign of the times i'm afraid, i pondered your question at work today and thought about back in "the day" i would spend a pleasant sunday morning ticklin the points on the Ford.
Topping up the damper oil on the wolsley/Riley SU carbs...

Now i run an Alpha Romeo, Can't even adjust the tickover.... wiring, controls and switches are liken to a nuclear device.. Haynes manual would be two inches thick if they made one..
Have found a clever and trusted technician about 70 miles away and thats who i call when it needs a service/repair...

So i think i'm right when i say many of the enfield type owners are those who enjoy tinkering with the kind of technology they are familiar with and understand..

Things move on and although this wizardry has been around for years its difficult to find information on trouble shooting.. example being, test sensors for resistance in ohms..

But what figures do we expect to find... Is this info in any workshop manual?... Sod this electronic fag, where's me virginia...