Hitchcocks Forum

I have to install a pair of bearings and an axel onto a spare front wheel. The workshop manual does mention a special drift tool (PED 2011), but our Hosts don't stock it. Has anyone else fitted bearings to a front wheel and how did you manage it?

Fitting them in is easy enough. You just tap them in gently perhaps using an old bearing to drift them home. Knocking the old ones out tales a bit more care. A rod pushed through from the other side and tapped carefully to ensure the bearing comes out evenly is the best way I've found.

When I got the wheel, there was a pair of bearings in the hub. They were easy to get out. The axel that came with the wheel had a pair of bearings on it. They were devils to remove because of the tight fit. I've fitted bearings before. Under normal circumstances, I'd tap in one bearing using a large socket as a drif into the hub. Then I'd insert the axel. My concern is that the axel is such a tight fit, that I'd hammer it in and ruin the first bearing. I'm just trying to get an idea of what other people used to fit these bearings.

Heat up the hub & knock the bearings out with the axle. ..... New bearings in freezer, heat hub, fit bearing & axle by any of the methods previously mentioned. ... QED

I had to do this recently and made my own tools.

1. An "anvil" made out of a big block of timber with a hole drilled in it big enough to take the axle.
2. A "drift" consisting of an old wheel bearing and a length of 1" x 1" oak.

Place one bearing onto axle, and put the axle into the hub. You don't need to hammer it in yet. Hold in place, turn the wheel over and put the axle into the hole in the anvil, with the hub resting on the anvil.

Put the second bearing onto the axle.

Place the old bearing over the new one, then using the oak as a drift, hammer gently until the new bearings are in place. Both bearings will seat in place just by hammering from one end. Remove the old bearing (it may need a gentle tap with the hammer).

Job done.

Just be sure that, if you are 'drifting' a bearing into place (ie using a blunt instrument!) that the force needs to be on the part against which it is being fitted...........So, if a bearing's a tight fit on a shaft, you need to drift the inner race.....If the bearing's going into a hub, hit the outer race.

Didn't know that Allan, thanks. By using the old bearings, the force is applied equally to inner and outer races. Is that OK?

Some good tips there folks. Glad I kept the old bearings.

Hi Ed. That sounds good to me. The main thing is not to drift by the inner race if the outer is being fitted to a hub (or drift by the outer if the inner is being drifted on to a shaft.) Allan.

A 'Workmate' or pair of wooden blocks across the hub is adequate support. The spacer between the bearings has a pair of cut-out holes at each end that enable easy use of a drift to knock them out. No heat should be needed, but I always put new (packaged) bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours before fitting them. Using a suitable large socket with very slightly smaller OD than the outer race is the best way to avoid damaging the new inner race, and tap around/across to keep it square. If you use the old bearing to knock in the new one, it's best to first remove the old inner race/etc to avoid any contact. Both new bearings can be driven fully home with the spacer slightly loose: correctly tightening the spindle bolt/nut then nips it all up just enough.