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Oil change advice

Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 4:59 pm
by dazza
Hi all I have a 350 cc bullet I have a new oil filter and oil ready I seen a video on y tube but the guy said to do a partial oil change and leave the filter in just change the oil because they say there is a problem filling up the oil filter chamber which could lead to engine trouble so is this true or do I just get on with it and change it I see there is 3 plugs to remove underneath and one half way on the outer case any replies to do it the right way thanks all

Oil change advice

Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 5:16 pm
by PeteF
Just make sure the new filter is soaked with oil before fitting and you should be fine. It's worth checking that the oil is circulating afterwards. I just remove the tappet cover and check oil is dribbling down from the head after the engine has been ticking over for a few minutes.

Oil change advice

Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 6:13 pm
by Alan R
Hi guys------ DAZZA, the you-tube advice is, in my opinion, round the wrong way... The basic filter for the 350/500 is not very efficient but is quite cheap..I change the filter at approx 1,000 miles and the oil + filter at 2,000....depending on the condition shown on the dip-stick..Our hosts sell an oil filter packing piece (40684) and an oil filter magnet (42505) which greatly enhance the standard filter....As PETE F says have your new filter pre-soaked before fitting ( I keep one permanently in-soak in a sealed container then just swap around each time )--- Buy your filters in bulk for even more savings..The original handbook says you can wash and re-use the filters...This is true but for just £3 approx a piece it's worth a new one I think ??-------- "Dowty" washers are particularly good at sealing oil pipes, banjos etc... Finally you don't need a Fully Synthetic oil for these "old ladies"... a good quality semi- or straight is fine..Have a look in at your local Farmers Shop or Supermarket where they often have as much as 10 to 15% off the mainstream prices..My personal favourite is Morris's of Shrewsbury------- but then I would say that, wouldn't I ???

Oil change advice

Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 6:50 pm
by dazza
Thanks for replying it's just I only purchased my bike two weeks ago and I have a new filter off the old owner but I checked the oil today and It is a bit low on the dipstick so for peace of mind I just want to change it and also do a gear oil change after that and any other jobs I need to do on this lovely bike to look after it thanks

Oil change advice

Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 7:13 pm
by PeteF
You will probably find the gearbox is filled with grease. Don't bother changing it till you need to take it apart, just top op with engine oil if required.

Oil change advice

Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 7:37 pm
by dazza
Thanks Pete will do another problem I had today is starting her up I got to get use to it I pushed the tickle button on the carb twice then pushed the Decom lever on the left side handlebar the turned ignition on and choke the fuel was on I kicked her over a few times and no luck I checked spark plug and it was wet I replaced it with a new one from local bike shop and fitted it and it worked so I don't know if I'm flooding her or if it was the spark plug ??

Oil change advice

Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:55 am
by PeteF
Sounds like you flooded it. It's a question of finding out what the particular engine needs - they're all different. Choking and tickling seems quite a lot in warm weather.

Oil change advice

Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:22 pm
by dazza
Yeah I will try tomorrow with just the choke

Oil change advice

Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 1:39 pm
by Alan R
Hi DAZZA--- a while ago a good friend of ours on here LES H came up with an alternative style for starting and it goes like this}--- First, imagine that the full travel of your kick starter is divided into 4 quarters, OK ??..........It's that LAST 1/4 of the travel that we are going to use....Now, FUEL ON,------ either CHOKE ON or several pushes with the tickler BUT NOT BOTH ( this will just flood it)...IGNITION ON, ------ using just that last 1/4 travel(this might take several small push downs on the kickstarter) turn the engine over and watch the ammeter at the same time.......the needle will deflect to the "-ve" side first . then deflect to the "+ve"....At this point give just one more 1/4 travel on the kickstarter.....Then give a FULL SWING to get a start.....

Oil change advice

Posted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:19 pm
by Durham Tim
I'm with Pete F on this one, regarding starting routine.

My 350 Bullet with Amal carb will not, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, start unless the carb is "tickled" to the extent that fuel actually starts to leak through the top of the tickler. I've tried every other combination, inluding choke at various openings.

The same even applied today when I took the bike out and the outside temperature was a balmy 20 degrees!!

If anyone has any magic solutions, I'd be delighted to hear from them! (Jetting, float height etc., etc).