Hitchcocks Forum

I run a 2011 Bullet EFI with just under 8000 miles on the clock, I have fitted a power commander to the ECU (same as sold by Hitchcocks) and fitted a after market silencer. Other than that it is factory stock.
Last night after leaving work, bike started perfectly as ever, cruised for 2 miles or so at 50 (average speed check on the motorway), in retrospect the bike felt a little sluggish and unresponsive through the throttle. Coming off the motorway onto the slip road, slowing down for the lights as I went down through the gears, the bike lost power / stalled, tried bumping it in second as I was losing speed (downhill slip road) but no to no avail. Once over to the side of the road I had no response what so ever from the electric start button (although there is electric to the headlights, indicators etc). Gave the kick start a go old go but only got the engine turning over but not running even for a moment. ( I will say having been spoilt by the electric start I have never truly mastered the kick start)
So then it was a wait in the rain (typical) for the AA to turn up. After a few hours of being messed about (another story for another day) finally a roadside mechanic diagnosed the bike as 'broken' with out offering much advise. I can only assume he wasn't to confident with motorcycles. However he did find out the battery is only giving off 10V and when he put the remote power boost through the starter it did whir as if it was trying to start and made some pretty grim sounding metallic clunking noises but didn't come close to running. It will be going in to see my local Enfield dealer ASAP but though I would ask on here to see if anyone had any thoughts / shed some light on what might be the problem.
Thanks for reading all of this and I will appreciate any comments.
Happy Friday all!
Cheers, George

Had a similar problem a while back on Woodsman, same age. I diagnosed it as the side stand cut out switch, It did it initially when it was really wet.

Did get a replacement and had a similar problem a month or two later, now removed it completely and have had no further problems at all.

Raising and lowering the stand a few times may get you going or to disconnect completely follow the cable back there is a plug up by the air box just disconnect it. At least you will be able to prove it one way or the other.

Thanks Niesmann, although I had actually disconnected that cut out switch previously because it was annoying me I couldn't have the bike running with the side stand down. I understand why they would have that switch I prefer to have it disconnected. I will try removing that whole section of loom to completely isolate that potential issue. More head scratching I fear!
Cheers, George.

10v from the battery is not good and I suspect a cell has failed or shorted inside. I should try and substitute it with a known good battery or take it out of circuit by disconnecting it and try jumping it from a car battery, using good quality jump leads, being careful not to short them together. If all is well then check the battery is receiving charge and replace it. Batteries do suddenly fail like that.

Thanks for the tip Frank. Will give that a go over the weekend.

Hi GEORGEIANKINK, ----- " the starter it did whir as if it was trying to start and made some pretty grim sounding metallic clunking noises but didn't come close to running." -------- Well, if you've been reading these pages for any amount of time I think you can guess what this might be by now ??----------- dare I suggest the SPRAG clutch ?? ------------------and it would appear that you might just be out of warranty as well ??? Worth a try though---

Hi All,

Thanks for everyone ones advice. I have got to the bottom of it! Kind off. After buying a brand new battery and still getting nothing i was fearing worst (SPRAG clutch) so I booked in with the local dealer. Confronted with a 3 week wait off the bike I though I best check everything over again. And there it was, the 20a fuse blown. I feel very stupid for not checking it at the side of the road in the first instance and annoyed the AA man didn't either.
Replacement in, starts first time. Little pootle about no worries. Start the next day but after a couple of miles. I stopped the bike for half an hour and when I came out to go out for a proper run, the fuse pops again. I will be going to go through the whole electrical system to check for anomalies / loose wiring but considering its the 20a fuse that is blowing, does anyone have any suggestions of logical places to start?
Thanks for you time. I can't remember where I read it but I am starting to understand the quote 'Royal Enfield, making mechanics of motorcyclists for a over 100 years!' (i am loving every minute!)

Cheers George

No idea of the fuses fitted to your bike, but if its the old type glass one rewire a spade type in, atb

Hi George;

I too have a 2011 efi, I have 18,800 miles on it and I have experienced what you went through. For me it was the side stand cut out thingy. Once that was disconected all was sweet....
Until recently, like the last few months and my spragg clutch as totally gone.... So I used the kick start and that wasn't working... I was getting increasingly phuqued off at this point.
It was on a cold May evening and the bugger wouldn't kick. Out comes the RAC and guess what, I had flooded the engine when i kicked... I though a twist of the throttle was a good thing to do. Turns out not to be.

If you have flooded the engine, with the ignition off kick it over a good few times. then, when it comes to getting her started, kick but do not touch the throttle until she firess up... Bingo.

Have fun!

Nick

Hi I had the same problem, after checking all of the above I eventually
Found an exposed wire behind the battery box I only found this when I
Noticed smoke coming from that area, I took the battery frame off and
There it was, 3 hours later a lot of electrical tape and an old harness
I managed to bodge it. Hope this helps