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[dennis t c]

I'd like to thank, Norm, Frank, Paul, Bryan and Gwilly for taking the time and trouble and replying to the help I needed. I think I might as well change the plates (if needed) springs and oil and be sure it's all in good order. I must say I like every thing right and they're great bikes, well worth time and trouble to get them right, thank you all once again ....... Dennis

[Norm]

Hi Dennis, before buying a lot of bits do some very carefull adjustments of the clutch. Make sure the adjustment on the clutch push rod is correct before you start adjusting the cable. I don't often find distorted plates but if your clutch has been slipping at some stage the 5 speed fibres can wear easily and the problem with them is they aren't that thick in the first place. The gearbox is pretty good and don't cause lot of problems

[Frank]

Dennis, the problem with gear changing is probably due to clutch drag, where the drive isn't being fully disconnected from the wheel when the clutch is disengaged. Before stripping it down you could do a simple test. With the engine hot after a run put the bike on the centre stand, put it in gear and pull the clutch lever fully in. Perfection would be if the wheel stops rotating but the likelihood is it will keep turning. However you should be able to stop it with light finger pressure on the tyre. There shouldn't be any real power or drive behind it trying to turn the wheel. If so, and you can't improve it with adjustments, then it would be worth investigating the clutch further. One further point to check is the final drive chain tension. Too slack or tight can cause gearchange difficulties. I run mine between 35 and 45mm upward movement on the bottom run, slacker than the book figures.