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Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 6:58 am
by Barnes
Hi all,
I am restoring a 1961 super meteor, I have had the engine running but the clutch is a real nightmare. I have had to take all the slack out the cable and then some just to get the clutch to disengage. But it is still dragging really badly.
When it came apart it only had 3 sets of plates in it I guess due to this problem. But when warm it slipped badly.
Can any of you help me to get this problem sorted please.
Thanks
Ed
Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:35 am
by Dennis C
Hi Ed two things to check, first one the cable routing is critical, second check the handlebar lever it should measure 1 -1 /8 inch from the centre of the nipple to the centre of the pivot any less and the cable won't move far enough.
Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:48 am
by Barnes
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the reply, the lever measures 1 1/8 so that checks out how do you recommend routing the cable I have it so it goes through the hole in the headlight binnacle down between the heads and then looping around the left side of the carb and down to the clutch
Thanks
Ed
Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 10:24 am
by Dennis C
Hi Ed
Through the hole in the nacelle let it loop out to the right and bring it back across to the left just behind the front frame tube loosely cable tied in place to hold it off the exhausts then above the primary chaincase to the gearbox.
A bit untidy I know but under the tank just wont work on mine and makes the clutch heavy and binding.
Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 11:14 am
by Derek W
Check that the metal clutch plates are actually flat. If the plates are bowed then the clutch will drag
Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 12:07 pm
by Mark M
Check the clutch pushrod is the correct length. It sounds as if you are not getting enough lift. A common modification is to cut the rod in two and put a ball bearing between the two halves, see if this has been done and make sure the bearing is still there. There should also be a "top hat" pressure pad at one end. Have a look at the Parts Book on this site and see if you have all the parts listed would be a good start in my opinion!
REgards, Mark
Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 12:57 pm
by Norm
Barnes, wish I could help but they are the annoyance of my life. Everyone is different, so solving is just a case of getting them to work and sometimes this takes hours of trying this and that. Eventually I get them sorted but trying to get the max amount of travel of the push rod is the most important thing without the adjuster screw in the clutch lever in the box not bottoming out on the nipple on the bearing cap. I have often ground the nipple off to allow me to get more rod travel
Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 3:58 pm
by Barnes
Hi all,
Many thanks for all your replies
Mark m the pushrods are new from hitchcocks so I presume they are ok, the modification you mention with the ball bearing sounds like the way to go, i shall try this next.
Dennis I have now routed it this way and while it is not as bad it still drags a touch,
I am working the next 4 days so will get back onto it next week.
Thank you again
Ed
Binding clutch
Posted: Sat May 11, 2013 5:28 pm
by meteur
hi barnes i also have a 1961 super meteor and had the same problem.i fitted new plain plates as the old ones were not flat i also fitted triumph levers yhey give more leverage.its imperitive you have the correct clearance at the adjuster at the pad to little and the whole clutch will heat up and drag making gear changing difficult also i recomend using ATF OIL in the chaincase. best of luck you will need it.