Forum

[Jools]

Hi all
I've got some fork gaitors from our hosts. Can anyone help me with some advice on fitting them ?.
Will I need to dismantle the forks to get them on, or can they be withdrawn complete ?
Bit unsure as I've not tackled any jobs on forks before.
Thanks
Jools

[jaffa90]

Try GURU page 28 ish.

[Alan (Lancashire)]

It not a hard job , but you do need to remove the complete forks from the bike.

Place bike on main stand , remove the ft wheel and mudguard and slacken the lower yoke pinch bolts , the forks unscrew from the top yoke , but as you are working from above the bike , you turn clockwise , as if you were tightening , there is an internal hex at the top of the fork leg , this is M8 , please read this to make a tool up: http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/ ... 30400.html , you could use the hex bar that holts your footrests on , it is the same size.

fitting the gaiters is fiddly , you need 2 sets of hands and some lubricant.

good luck

alan

[Alan R]

Hello JOOLS--------- This was covered in some detail at the back end of last year following some requests by MATT.....Have a look at page 21 (Is the fork cover bush needed after removing the fork covers ?)............. page 22 (These gaiters are causing me problems).......... and page 26 (Front suspension gaiters - how big a job to fit ?)........ Our hosts supply TWO different types of gaiter, both of which will fit over the lower, sliding leg---- but only the larger type will also fit over the fork shroud as supplied... However you can modify it such that it will fit as described in one of those postings...

[Jools]

Thanks gents. Think I understand a bit more now. Not sure how it will go, but will find out tomorrow !.

[Alan R]

Hi JOOLS---------- this is my bike with the Large Diameter type gaitors fitted last year}-----------BEFORE }------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ and AFTER ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- and this is how much to cut off the top shroud.. You DON'T need to remove the whole thing from the lower yoke at all.....................----------------------- hope that's of some help ????

[Jools]

Thanks Alan.
So far... the forks came off nice and easy but I'm having real probs stretching the fork gaitors over the bottom part of the fork, anyone got any tips?
The gaitors are from our hosts, part no. 92504. One end has a smaller diameter opening than the other, I take it this is the end that goes over the fork? Also, is it necessary to cut the fork covers? (just in case I wanted to go back to the way it looks now).

[Alan R]

Hi JOOLS-------- the ones you see fitted on my bike are}---146167... With the other type that YOU now have, the larger end fits over the Aluminium slider part whilst the smaller end is a firm,slide-fit on the fork stanchion..ie}---you currently have them upside down !!!...... If you want to keep the original, full-length fork shrouds then you'll have to remove them completely from the bike and fill-in the resulting gap at the lower yoke with items No.}---- 801466 (black) OR 170346 (chrome)-- as seen on page 152 of the catalogue...If you select that option then the smaller diameter of the gaiters that you currently have will fit WITHIN the overall opening of those collars ( With the larger end fitted onto the top of the lower leg.....see page 198, item G....That's how it should look..................TIP N0.1 }-----Before re-fitting the stanchions why not drain the old oil and change to ATF ??.. Even if you retain the original fork springs just this change of oil will improve the front-end performance-------------------------- TIP No.2} and a word of CAUTION for you------------- DO PLEASE TAKE CARE when trying to re-start the threaded tops of the stanchions into their respective holes in the casquette.. It's a very fine thread and is easily cross-threaded.. TIP No.3}---- remove the bolts entirely from the lower yoke and use a taper wedge of some sort to open-up the clamp area ( As much as you feel comfortable with )... This will allow you maneuvering room to gently "feel" for the thread starting into the casquette as you lift the stanchion upwards............. TIP No.4}--- Consider using our hosts STEEL axle caps as the original Aluminium have a nasty habit of CRACKING !!!---- Hope all that helps a bit ???

[Jools]

Thanks again Alan - Upside down would explain a lot! So if i cut the fork shrouds at the point you indicate, am I right in thinking the rubber gaitor will go underneath the shroud?

[Alan R]

Hello JOOLS------------ If you have now decided to cut the fork shrouds then you best use the other type of gaiter ie part No. 146167 as both of its' ends have a large dia. hole and fit comfortably over the slider top AND the short remnant of fork shroud still attached ( as per my middle photo )..You might ask our hosts if they would do you an exchange as they are both the same price---- BUT, there is another way using the gaiters that you have at the moment...At the SMALLER DIAMETER END you cut through at the first small diameter fold of the bellows shape( as in this photo)>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- By careful streatching you can now make this end fit over the bit of the fork shroud left at the lower yoke, as in this next photo ( Note}--- this is a scrap part of the shroud for illustration only)>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ then secure it with a jubilee clip and hook the other end over the slider.........Hope that makes sense ??.. PS, make that 2.75" as I found 2.5" a tad short...