Forum

[Chris [Stockport]]

Yet another clutch cable broke this morning on the way to work. Fortunately I had another one so fixed it quick... I'm becoming proficient at this...


It's on a year 2000 Classic 500 and usually but not always breaks at the handlebar end.  I always ask Mr H for heir best quality ones.


I haven't routed it properly yet, in order to do it quickly.  There are therefore no sudden bends or kinks... easy to see this.  Nevertheless, the clutch does feel heavier than on my other (similar) bike. This could well be putting extra strain on the cable, of course.


Any suggestions either to stop breakages or to lighten the clutch would be appreciated. (I've always kept it well lubricated where it attaches and also the grease nipple.)


Thanks, Chris

[Edward]

Hi Chris


Hitchcocks English cables are worth the extra. A smear of grease on each nipple helps as does some on the handlebar pivot. Are you remembering to grease the grease nipple atop the gearbox?


Regards


Edward

[Paul M H]

Check your leaver carefully where the nipple goes into it and the slot and make sure it has full travel that its not bending the cable end each time its pulled in fully. The slot in mine was not cut properly or the hole deep enough at one side so when the leaver was pulled to full travel it was bending the cable each time and twisting it at the nipple end. It was just a badly finished leaver on mine.

[p]

Make sure there is no chafe or bending of inner as it works at lever end, make sure the cable is pulling fairly straight from the outer here, I find the sort without top adjuster is better because you can lightly file the outer support to get nice lead. I find best route for smooth action is through nacelle (or not depending on handlebar position!), but importantly down the down tube, and over top of area between primary case and engine, thence a gentle curve straight into back of gearbox. This way there are less bends and also the steering only exerts a minor twist to cable instead of sharpish constant bending if routed under tank.....

[1950s Bulleteer]

There is a possibility that the clutch pushrod is binding causing the heavy operation.


 


By The Way, I am Dan Ford of West Sussex, however the new registration system will only let me be just Dan, LOL. This is my first post under the new system, seems to work OK for me, apart from the name.

[neddy]

Chris, whenever a cable (bowden cable) is installed, you try it all over the place, if any resistance is felt, then you need to find out why before using it, if its all good  fine, if it fails after that then something else is taking place, you need to find it

[Alan R]

Hi Chris (Stockport)------- you might like to consider our hosts Clutch Hydraulic Conversion kit ?? My previous Bullet Sixty-Five lost it's clutch nipple (for the 3rd time) on the way home from work. I had just started my entry onto a major roundabout on the exit from the Army Engineering Depot where I worked at the time. The bike stalled and I fell over to the left side in full view of all the staff on their way home !! The front crash bars earned their keep that day. It was my intention to fit an hydraulic kit but I was offered a lot of money by a desperate man --- so I sold it-------BAD MOVE  :[ glum    Worth a look though-----------?? 

[Beezabryan]

Never having had a cable fail on the road may I suggest that Chris of Stockport goes through the earlier suggestions.


Only once have I have had broken strands at the lever end of a non English cable.


I do make a habit of regular preventative maintenace that includes disconnecting cables to check for free run & lubrication.

[PeteF]

I agree with Beezabryan. Good quality Bowden cables should last for years IF they are looked after. Any binding or twisting in operation will, however, knack them in no time.


'Course, if there's nowt wrong with the outer, you could save money by getting some inner and nipples and doing it yourself.


If the existing cable has lost it's nipple close up to the end you might  even just fit a new nipple (serious degreasing would be needed for this. 

[Alan R]

I also agree with Beezabryan--there's no substitute for preventative maintenance. Something I haven't done for a few years now is to carry a spare cable for each type actually in-situ on the bike. Have a look on E-bay under---" Clutch Cable Repair"----Universal repair kits for about a fiver. Dan---Try DanFord as one word ?? When first registereing under this new system I made an error and entered myself as "Fritzboy". I asked our webmaster if he could change it back to Alan R ---- and he did !! Now I'm off to give my nipples a good scrub and de-grease (nice :}