Hitchcocks Forum

Hi, I have an Electra efi nearly 2 yrs old and done just over 17,000 miles.
Turned it on this morning and got a rather horrible and loud CLANK CLANK CLANK from the engine. the bike did start after a short while and on a 12 mile ride was great...

Question is, what the hell was that clanking and, is it as serious as it sounds?

My first guess would be the electric start. Does it do the same think if you use the kick starter?

Hi guys------- nick, how's that warranty looking ??? I know the more seasoned members out there ( and I DON'T mean the salt & pepper types) will have read the following many-a-time from me BUT if it's still in force, get it back to the shop ASAP for a complete check-over.....

Hi... thanks for the replies.. The kick seems fine, I've gotten lazy and have lost the 'knack' of its particular lick so will start kicking again.

Not sure if the warranty is out of date or not if not maybe only 4 weeks left the bugger is that in the 2nd year I have to pay labour costs

Cheers

Hi Nick... you are not alone. I have had the same issue with my 2008 EFI Electra which has 16000 miles. I am almost certain it is the sprag clutch failing to grab properly. This is an electric start related issue. I have stripped my bike and the only issue was slight wear on the sprag clutch bearing faces. I haven't replaced it yet (it costs...). Don't use the electric start at all, only use kick, until you either have time to replace the sprag or you can get it fixed by someone.

Having stripped the sprag out myself, I can't imagine that labour costs would be too high. It only took me a couple of hours to get the sprag out - and that was learning on the job and building a tool to get the clutch basket and primary chain out! It was 30 minutes to put back together.

Keep us informed My bike runs fine on KS only

Hi Michael thanks for that... I can oil a chain pump up the tires and change a bulb... and fill up the engine oil and that is the limit of my mechanical/technical nous ... so will have to find the knack for the KS... oh well... thank the Lord for the KS!

Cheers

Hi nik, I like to kick start my bike from time to time, manly to show off.
The way I KS in the cold is as follows, first thing before you turn the key
I pump the kick until it gets stiff, kick it then pump until hard,then I turn the key until the mil light goes out
then I kick down in one smooth motion and this 9 times out of 10 however if it doesn't
repeat the process from switching the bike off.
In the warm weather I just turn the bike on wait for the mil light to go out then pump the kick until hard then
Kick down and this works for me, hope this helps.

Hi Nick, Foz,

I have a 2011 standard EFI. The automatic decompressor worked in such a way as there was no compression to feel on the kick start and you had no need to find a starting position, however a few moments after starting with the electric, there would be quite a loud single clang.

After a few months my dealer agreed to sort this out and he removed the auto mechanism. This removed the source of the noise and as a consequence it also meant the kick start could be used to bring the piston up on the compression stroke and it felt like a normal Bullet. He told me that Watsons have removed this feature on new bikes, but this was just hearsay. I was concerned that this mod. would put extra strain on the sprag, but 6,500 km later it still functions perfectly.

Maybe some clues in my experience whether you still have the auto decompressor or not.

Cheers TrevorCH

Hi Nick, Foz and Trevorch... although I don't much much about the true mechanical issues it might be worth adding some evidence and advice to this thread. So here goes... When I noticed the problem with my electric start I had just done some very long distance mileage, and the engine oil was a little low. The first instance I had was that the ES wouldn't catch, then a loud clang and... nothing. Dead. It would then catch maybe on the second or third attempt (although I probably shouldn't have tried again after the clang!). I never heard anything for a while (a few months) after the first instance until a heavy backfire when throttling down from 55ish to a stop when I heard the same clang and the engine stopped dead - then issue with ES then resurfaced for a wee while, but I stopped using the ES for a while after that. Then, in early winter, I had to try using the ES as kicking wasn't being fruitful one morning... the clang was worse, and now happens every time (I think the extreme cold was a factor in the final demise of my ES). I then stripped the ES system from battery to starter motor to sprag (inside left hand engine casing). The only slight issue was a slightly undulated surface on the bearing faces of the sprag housing gears and a tiny fragment of metal broken from the sprag (1mm squared in size). I initially through the fragment could be the cause of the issues... but on re-installation the clanging still existed, so the problem realistically is the undulation on the bearing surface (i.e. wear). I think that oil starvation due to running low on my long journeys in the summer is the source of the problem. One day I will change the sprag housing over. Trevorch - did your single clang happen AS you had the ES button depressed, or was it after the engine started and you had released the ES button?............................................................................................................................................................................................................................... (don't know how to line break!)............................................................................................................................................................. Regarding kickstarting and the auto-decompressor... I kick the bike over with the clutch pulled 3 or 4 times to free off the primary and clutch basket, then I gently kick until I feel slight resistance from the piston (compression stroke). If I push with any force at all at that point, the auto-decompressor operates, the kick start lever pushes on right through compression... a hiss is heard from the exhaust and the bike wont start (if you don't hear the hiss when you push through that point, your auto-decompressor may be sticky) Instead, at the point in the stroke where I feel compression, that is where I give a proper kick (not pushing through the engine cycle, but a full kick...gentle, but deliberate and kicking to the bottom of the lever's range). A very slight twist of the throttle just BEFORE the engine catches really helps with first time starting, and then using the bistarter lever to build up revs (i.e. not throttling). This pretty much works every time, and the kick required probably wouldn't even knock over a cat... if you know what I mean... you don't have to welly it.

@Michael,

After starting with foot or ES, about 30 seconds later it would make one "clang" or like a metallic sound within the engine. Since it disappeared, after the auto decompressor was removed, which is in fact a centrifugal switch, I assume it was connected with that. I think the original auto compressor was excellent for lighter male or female riders, or those with ageing knee joints. With the normal against full compression kick start and higher compression of the EFI, it certainly needs a stronger push and remarkably, I never get a kick back, so far.
Cheers TrevorCH