Hitchcocks Forum

I've recently replaced the rear brake plate on my 1960 Super Meteor from the steel version to the early interceptor alloy type. There is a difference in design whereby the brake lever cam is fixed in position (because it's been cast) rather than the steel version which is mounted on 2 bolts so that it can slide slightly, (and therefore compensate and centralise itself).
This isn't possible with the alloy version & on applying the brake I can feel the brake lining touching then not as the drum rotates, the drum has been skimmed recently when the drum sprocket was re-toothed, but I think that is co-incidental and it's the design differences of the cam being fixed or moving that is the problem.
Any thoughts? Especially those Interceptor experts who have the alloy brake plate version.

On most brakes of this type the answer is the same. Bike on stand. Front wheel must be clear of the ground. Loosen the front wheel. Spin the front wheel as fast as possible. Apply the brake fast and hard and keep the brake on. This will centralise the brake plate and linings in the drum. Get somebody to now re-tighten the front wheel. Simples. HTH.

Hi Mike, thanks for the reply, my question related to the rear brake, do I take it that the same principal applies?

In principle yes. However you say you had the drum skimmed when the sprocket was "re-toothed". Did you have new linings/shoes fitted to the brake plate and then have that turned to match the drum?

Sounds like the drum was skimmed slightly off center,if you fit it up without the brake plate you will be able to spot this.
The floating brake wasn't designed for this specifically,more of a centralising and compensating for wear,and not
for constant moving compensating for an off center brake drum.Jack

Thanks all I will have another look at the drum

Westy, I asked last night about whether you had new linings/shoes turned to match your skimmed hubs you will recall. It also ocurs to me to ask when you skimmed the brake drum. Was it skimmed with the rim laced to it, or was it skimmed prior to rebuilding the wheel? If it was the latter then wheel building can create ovality in the hub when tightening all of those spokeys. If you skim a hub always have it done as a fully laced wheel, and always have newshoes/linings fitteh to the brake plate and turned to match the hub. HTH.

Hi Mike, yes I remember you asking the question, the drum and sprocket are a seperate one piece casting and as I was having the sprocket teeth re-profiled it was just the drum/sprocket assy that was sent, so it wasn't laced in with the wheel and trued as a complete wheel.

Mike does not have an Enfield l think so may not know that the sprocket/brakedrum is not part of the wheel so has no spokes in it. REgards, Mark

I'm thinking a cheap dial guage with magnetic stand is the diagnostic tool required here.

Set up as Jack mentions with the plate removed and measure the run out on the drum as you slowly turn the wheel.

We can only hope that the drum wasn't crushed out of round when clamped to reprofile teeth.
Surely it would have been skimmed after the tooth job. Measure and find out.

If not too bad then reskim the drum and linings to match.

On reassembly leave the plate locking nut slightly loose, spin the wheel, hit the brake on and hold this position whilst lock nut retightened. Regards gwilly