Hitchcocks Forum

I have just received the "long neck" 15/16" Amal 276 carb body that will fit mu Model G. I have to dismantle it and clean it properly before assembling it with the useful bits from the old 1-1/6" 276 that I have and some new parts that will be ordered, eventually. .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Just one question: How do I get the jet block out? The float chamber is off, of course, and so it the slide etc.. I have unscrewed the "union nut", the main jet and the needle jet and everything else, but still the jet block won't come out? Is there some secret securing pin or set screw I have to loosen, or is it just stuck? .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- I will soak it in kerosene for a while, and see if that will help. In the mean time, maybe someone knowssomething? .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Regards, Anders F. R.

Anders, it's a tight push fit. I usually boil it in a pan of hot water and then gently tap the top of the jet block with a hammer and a piece of wood. Go gently, the top of the jet block is thin and can distort if hit too hard! REgards, Mark

Yes it just pushes out. This is actually the most crucial and troublesome part of the carb in that over tightening of the bottom nut can crimp the bottom edge of the carb body and give the impression that the jet block is a tight fit when in fact it is only held at the bottom edge. The various vents and passages that run between the body and the jet block need to be an air tight fit so I suggest that when you put it back together you use some engineer's blue on the jet block and make sure you're getting good contact with the body. If not you can gently relieve the crimped bottom edge of the body with a scrapping tool of some variety and then use a paper shim to push the jet block up against the right side of the body. You will be able to tell if there are issues with the contact because the carb will run rich and the air screw will have little or no effect. I would suggest if the jet block is nicely seated in the body that you leave it there and simply blow out the body with compressed air. Good luck with it. S

Hi Anders, sorry to hijack this but did you ever come up with a solution to your gearbox oil leak? Would sealed bearings help solve it or is there another place it leaks out from?

Thank you all for your help! Soaking it in good-old-WD40 since yesterday did the trick. I didn't even have to boil it, just knocked it carefully out with a piece of wood and my fist. For some reason every hole and passage in the whole carb body and jet block is filled with alloy swarf. It seems like someone has planed the mounting surface with a file and then fine sand paper, letting all the debris into the carb. I guess an ultrasonic cleaning bath will be the best cure to get rid of it all. .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- It was good to know that I didn'tmiss any screws or pins or anything before trying to push it out. .-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Norm: Sorry, I haven't updated that gearbox leak question. It seems that I was wrong about the whole "now-it's-leaking-more-than-it-used-to" thing. I may have filled too much oil, I don't know. Anyway, the leak was back to normal soon after I wrote about it. That is a few drops after everey run (and of course during every run, but that doesn't stain my parking space), but not more than usual. I top it up from time to time, that's all. I find no reason to tear down gearbox that otherwise works brilliantly. Shifting is precise, it never jumps out of gear and it doesn't make any noises (unlike both my BMW gearboxes that are fairly loud)..-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.- Regards, Anders F. R.

Thanks Anders, I guess that is the way they are

My old one used to look like a self saucing pudding until I put proper 00 grease in it and then it pretty much stopped leaking altogether. On the carb thing, an ultrasonic clean would be brilliant because you can get little bits of crud catching in various crannies. I spent ages winkling out a bit of git from the bottom of the air screw hole.