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[TimG]

Hi all


Had just completed some routine servicing on my 2006 500 Classic, then next morning switched it on. Ammeter flickered a bit, then returned to centre. No further movement when I pushed the kickstarter. I checked the kill switch etc. - nothing. Since the ignition switch has long been dodgy I came to the "obvious" conclusion and ordered a new one from our hosts, which I fitted. No difference.


I checked the fuse, lights, horn etc. - all in working order, but still no movement from the ammeter, and couldn't start the bike at all. So obviously the ignition circuit has gone somewhere. My problem is, I am little or no good at testing with multimeters etc.  I have read Pete Snidal's manual, and have a few ideas of what to test in what order. However, I would appreciate a bit of help from the assembled experts.


First, Mr. S's manual, when going through ignition testing, makes no mention of the condensor and how it is wired into the points system. The wiring diagram is no help as it doesn't even mention it! Would an O/C condensor cause ignition failure? I did look at the points as part of the servicing but literally all I did was check the gap (it was fine).


Secondly, I'm not sure if a duff spark plug would cause a total lack of function on the low tension side of the circuit - I will put another one in to check, but aside from re-gapping the old one (to the correct value) I did nothing to it that could cause it to fail as far as I can see - it was working perfectly until I pulled it.


Can anyone please give me some idea of how I can test logically for malfunctions, including the condensor? Would be v grateful...


Cheers


TimG

[Enfield Phil]

Hi Tim, similar thing happened to me, I checked the fuse in the side panel and it was ok, but later found there was another fuse box under the seat near the rectifier and true enough this had blown hope this was some use for you, let is know how you get on, Phil

[TimG]

Hi Phil


Ah...the infamous second fuse. Would a 2006 iron barrel Classic have this? Will certainly see if I can find it. Can you tell me what it is rated at??


Cheers


TimG

[Chris [Stockport]]

Hi  My 2007 500 classic DOES have the 2nd fuse, so it looks likely yours will.  Sorry I cant remember rating but it'll be on it anyway


Good luck,


Chris

[ChrisD]

TimG


Did you take the condensor off?  I have often not put it back correctly and swapped around the different bits of insulation.  If one of them is wrong, tghe bike just laughs at you.


I now have a photo of a correctly working setup so I can be sure I've done it right.


Maybe that's your answer.


ChrisD

[Enfield Phil]

Hi Tim, sorry cant remember what size fuse it is, mine was a 2007 350 classic, I got to it by slackening off the nuts that hold the seat on at the rear.

[MadMike]

Making my normal disclaimer that I don't have an Enfield I would guess the fuse if it is in the main circuit will be around 20 or 25 amps.


Incidentally while you are playing with the old electricals, try putting a voltmeter over the battery. If your voltage has dropped to 12v or less, then there is every chance that it simply will not start. You should have between 12.6 and perhaps 13.2 volts if the battery is charged. Even as low as 11 volts the lights will still work as will the horn, but it will not start.


Remember we are coming out of winter and the low temperatures will have caused damage to the battery unless you were bravely riding every day, or like me have a whole battery (no pun intended) of Optimates in use. Assuming of course that you are not in the antipodes, in which case ignore the last remark about winter, however an old battery can do the same. Modern batteries do not last like the old black Lucas and Exide ones.

[Norm]

 Mike,


     The new glass matt batteries are heaps better than the lead acid, those thing jut give up so easily I would never but one again. I assume they are available over there

[Alan R]

Hi matey -----------If you've changed the points--have you connected them together correctly ?? If you have a chromed cover on the distributor take it off and try again. The points have a thin plastic insulation strip which can become moved or broken. Although the main cover is actually plastic the chrome itself is conductive. The points assembly is V. close to them and can make contact and then short out. Go onto Google----Ignition System ------scroll down to }-- "Mechanically timed ignition" and a coloured picture for a 4-cyl set up. There is also a easy-to-understand description of how it all works.  Ignore the comment" A condenser is there to prevent points burning "------------ that's a popular Urban myth. It's actually a by-product of having a capacitor in the system. Scroll down further for a full tech. description of exactly how the capacitor works in tune with the coil and gives that intense, bright blue spark that you need. 

[TimG]

Hi all


Many thanks for the help - as usual, a good set of pointers to try.


MadMike - will indeed check the battery voltage, although it was working perfectly the day before I serviced the bike. The battery is getting old and could well do with some fettling methinks.


ChrisD - I didn't take either the points or condensor off the plate, just literally checked the points gap, so things SHOULD not have been disturbed, ALTHOUGH....


Alan R - you intrigue me strangely old bird, re your suggestion of the points cover potentially shorting out the points, will double check that the insulation strip has not become dislodged.


Tonight will run a series of basic tests to narrow down the fault, along with a fuse hunt (I have the single seat fitted, so the fuse may well have been moved somewhere else to reduce vulnerability) and a battery check...one of these must surely bring results...


Cheers


TimG