Hitchcocks Forum

Just changed the oil in my Classic 2008 Bullet 500 (Iron engine). Removed all 3 drain plugs underneath - rear one is obviously the tank drain - the other two had filter screens and a small amount drained from those. No probs.

Filled the tank again with 20w/50 - 2 litres as is recommended. Checked the dipstick level - and it was almost up to the threads - so well too much. Ran on tickover - clouds of smoke - but no reduction to oil level, so I sucked the excess out again - about 1/2 litre before the level reduced to 3/4 up the hatched bit.

Rather concerned, as the book says 2 1/4 litres - but mine now has about 1 1/2 litres of fresh oil in it!!

I am wondering - could the PAV reservoir bottle have been full - and then emptied itself into the tank after I drained it?

Second question - been looking at the oil filler mod that peeps seem to be recommending - but it says "only for use with engines where crankcase vent is on the LH crankcase, just below the cylinder". There is no visible vent here on my engine - both tubes from the reservoir bottle-thingy seem to go into the RH side of the engine - so can I not use this mod on my bike?

Mike

First of all, the PAV has nothing to do with the breather system. It stands for Pulsed Air Valve and is designed to allow air into the exhaust to burn off fuel which is unburnt in the cylinder when the throttle is closed. The catch tank you are talking about is part of the breather system and you can read about all that here;.......... http://www.whfolk.co.uk/REOCHUMBER/Arti ... ......Both these systems were fitted to get the engine through emmissions but don't do much and should be removed IMO. The article should also answer your question about the breather. As to the oil level; just keep it about half way up the marked part of the dipstick. Did you drain the timing chest and replace the filter when you drained the engine? It holds quite a lot and will obviously make a difference to how much fresh oil you need to put in.

About 1 1/2 litres sounds about right to me. I've never had to put it's declared capacity in when changing the oil, even when the filter has been changed.I guess the rest of it must be stuck in the engine somewhere. I measure what comes out and put the same back in ( provided the level is OK to start with of course)

I did replace the filter - but didn't drain the timing chest - is this necessary? I had read that article you quote, and noticed this bit :- "5. Oil (and water) caught in the catch can is returned to the engine via another tube to the back of the timing chest".
I must say, I'm finding all this quite confusing - how can they recommend a quantity of 2 1/4 litres to refill, when mine (and Franks it seems) only take about 1 1/2 litres - would the timing chest contain 1/2 to 3/4 litres, I wonder? I did read that the "catch can" should be drained regularly - but mine doesn't seem to have the removable draining nut to achieve this - hence my thinking that with the oil tank emptied, this allowed the catch can to drain its contents back into the tank!! I seem to be finding that whatever manual or handbook I read, it doesn't really seem to be quite written for my year and model!!
I do seem to have had some success this morning - I've drilled the trunnion on the front tls brake link rod, and adjusted the system - it seems only one shoe had been doing most of the work!!

Mike

There is quite a bit in the timing chest so it should be drained really (don't know exactly how much) Don't get hung up about what the book says about oil capacity, just fill yours to about half way up the markings on the dip stick. It pays to do this in two stages - fill so the level is just on the dipstick - run the engine for a few minutes - top up to correct level. If you drain the old oil while it's hot (as you should) there should be very little in the rest of the engine. Your 2008 model doesn't have a drain nut on the catch can but is supposed to drain via the tube that goes from the catch can to the back of the timing chest. This tube has a duckbill non return valve built in (the wide bit in the tube) so that the timing chest doesn't blow oil back into the catch can. In my experiance the system doesn't work very well as this NRV gets bunged up with emulsion. The catch can then fills up and dumps into the air filter in the RHS box. If the system does get bunged up you have to remove the catch can and all the tubing and clean it out manually. This is a pain as it's not easy to get at and was the deciding factor for me to dump the whole system. You'll get used to the oddities of the Enfield and you'll soon realise that it is nothing like a modern machine (Yamamha for instance

Not Numpty, just new to Bullet mythology,

If it is any comfort, my new EFI also states oil capacity as 2.25L. However this is for a brand new engines 1st fill in the factory. After normal draining, it only needs a little over 1.5L. No dipstick on this model but a nice sight glass, if you wait a day or so for the level to settle so you can actually see through the little window. Progress??

Agree with all other remarks - scrap the PAV, not forgetting to seal the hole in the inlet manifold. Take the breather out of the back of the timing case and seal the hole also, then fit a duck bill on the end of the pipe and route it somewhere near the chain. This way you hardly need to clean out the catch can as if it does get a bit too much Mayo, it will get blown out via the tube and over the chain, messy but no harm.

Cheers TrevorCH.

A rebuilt motor will take about 2.25 litres and if you remove the timing cover and replace the filter you can usually get about 2 litres back in

Hi guys ----- If it helps any, I believe our hosts list some blanking plugs for the tool box etc. for when you remove the PAV system ( I also agree with the others re}--removal of the PAV system).

PAV is not the real cause of problems, main reason for removal is for looks, breather rectification is the most important thing

Today the postman brought me a parcel from our hosts - spare cables, neutral switch - and one of those old style air filter boxes, so it was off with the old, and on with the new!! I should have ordered some of those rubber bungs to seal the holes in the NOW toolbox, but forgot!! With the toolbox and old expansion boxes off, I had a good look at that catch can thingy. I took note of what you have all been telling me about removing the complete system - so I removed one of the pipes from the bottom - dry as a bone in there, so I guess it must be working, to some extent. As I now had a 1/2" overflow pipe that did go into the now toolbox that I had to do something with, I decided to just extend this pipe, and run it down to the bottom of the frame - and leave the rest of the system intact. If I find any problems with this "fix" I can always go back in there and remove the whole system at a later date. The new neutal switch I got because I had to give it a thump, as the electric starter would only work with the clutch lever pulled in - so the solenoid wasn't earthing through it. Worked fine after the thump - but decided I would replace it - and seal it a bit from the crud thrown onto it by the tyre - it seems in a very vunerable position!! Since refilling the chaincase with ATF I seem to have an annoying little weep from it - not from the cover O ring, but from the gasket against the crankcase. Seems too much needs to be removed to warrent replacing at the moment - so a regular wipe with a cloth seems the best solution for now!! My dear wife askes every day "Is it finished yet?" - they really don't seem to get it that it's NEVER really finished, do they !! I did get a pair of 12v LED lights from Ultra LED's - one green for a neutral light (not one fitted on my model), and an amber one to replace the imvisible one in the speedo - I intend to fit these either side of the speedo where they should be visible. Maybe a job for tomorrow!!

Mike