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[stinkwheel]

I'm going to give my electrex ignition/lighting system another try. It's on a 612 converted 500 bullet.

To time it up, you need to locate the rotor on a tapered collet on the crank with a mark aligned at TDC. The trouble is, to do this erffectively, you need to hold both the crank and the rotor still while you tighten the nut sufficiently to lock the rotor in position. Otherwise one or other moves as you tighten the nut.

Now the rotor can be held still by hand. I can lock up the crank by putting a folded piece of denim in the primary chain but It's nearly impossible to lock it in the TDC position. Then you're left guestimating how much it's rotated, offsetting the rotor by that much and checking it back at TDC.

When I last did this, it involved a large amount of trial and error. I was wondering if there is a better way to hold/lock the crank still at TDC? Maybe something in the timing side? It doesn't need to hold it to fully tighten the rotor nut, just tighten it enough to get a grip on the taper.

[Adrian]

First idea in mind: fit an old (sacrificial) worn-teeth timing pinion to the crank and use a set of round-jaw mole grips on it. Lock it in such a position that the grip handles but up against something to resist the turning of crank once TDC is reached.

A.

[Daiwiskers]

To lock crank's and clutches I use a piece is nylon bar about 3" x 2"you would have to measure the length and cut to size between the crank sprocket and clutch
Sorry I can't remember the grade but it is machinable
You want to fit it between the top of crank sprocket and bottom of clutch to tighten the opposite to loosen

You could probably get away with a piece of hardwood

Hope this help's Dai

Harley used to sell a small block of the same nylon again about 3" x 2" with step's cut in that fitted between the primary sprockets and primary chain

Last time I looked they where available on e#ay
They work well enough but I always worried about tightening the compensator to 170 ft Lt using the primary chain

[Daiwiskers]

Just found Harley tool here's a pic to give you a idea of size
Listed as Harley Davidson primary locking tool on e#ay

IMG_20220709_201351.jpg (5.43 MiB) Viewed 13507 times

[stinkwheel]

I get it, so doing mostly the same as my bit of folded denim but in a more predictable manner. Could probably even use a bit of alloy bar.

Had another thought. What if I got an old timing pinnion and engaged it with the teeth on two adjacent sprockets on the timing side when the engine is at TDC? If it fits, it would lock everything up solid.

[Daiwiskers]

That should work but I would be worried about stripping teeth on the timing side

But you know far more about the bullet motor than I do

Cheers Dai

Edit.
Possibly a piece of copper between the teeth on the timing side

[Bullet Whisperer]

I think I know the kind of set up you are dealing with and would have assumed there might be some provision for fine tuning the timing by moving the stator on slotted holes, but if not and you have to fit the rotor in a set position on its tapered fitting, a tap on it using a suitable tube should seat it on the taper tightly enough to keep it positioned on the crank while you tighten the retaining nut. By this, obviously I don't mean beating the crap out of it, as obviously, the mainshaft could move inwards through the flywheel and magnets don't always respond to being struck, but a light blow or two, nothing too mad, might do the job?

[stinkwheel]

Aye, the rubber mallet came into play last time. You'd still see it move slightly "just" as it nipped up. I can't understand why they didn't just key the rotor. The kit is for BSA unit singles and Bullets, both of which have keyed cranks.

You're correct in saying there is a "fudge factor" with the slotted stator mounts but it's not all that big. It would be good to get it on properly central from the get-go.

I'm re-fitting it because it worked perfectly well and gave a reliable spark even with a flat battery. I was blaming it for over-advancing and causing a tapping noise which I now know was due to the inlet cam follower bottoming out. I'll just leave the distributor mounted but disconnected for the first couple of weeks until I'm happy with it.

[Daiwiskers]

Hold it by hand and put a rattle gun on it (assuming you have one )

[Adrian]

Another thought, if you have the top end off for any reason, which you probably won't just for timing, but hey...

Try a suitable length 3/4" bar through the little end eye, and the ends of said bar packed with (e.g.) hardwood spacers down to the top of the crankcase mouth.

I actually had one of those Electrex World kits sat in a box for ages, as I liked the idea of the crank mounted CDI ignition as a way of going battery-less for the sparks, but in the end the poor output from the lighting coils (50W total!) dissuaded me from using it. Does your kit have the lighting coils, and if so, how well did they actually perform when you last had it fitted?

A.