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By Andy C
#100992
Thought I would have a dig around You Tube - seems that everyone wires them direct to the battery, which is not the best of idea as it puts a current drain (albeit very small) on the battery.

As the Him does not seem to have a dedicated connection point for accessories I have fitted mine by tapping into the wiring loom to the rear light - easy to get at, it is already fused, and when the ignition is off so is the USB adaptor.
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By stinkwheel
#100993
Best way is to connect them direct to the battery via a fused relay which is activated by tapping into a switched live. I generally use the rear brake switch live on the basis that if it decides to fail where I disrupted the standard wiring, It's not really all that important. I also generally do it on the switch wiring rather than the loom wiring so I haven't altered the loom in any way, switches can be replaced if you want to put it back to standard.
By Andy C
#100994
Fair comment I guess - I was just looking for an easy solution that would give me a fused switched supply.

I made a good job of tapping into the loom - hook joints / solder / heat shrink sleeving so no danger of failure - knew my workshop wiring training I did during my apprenticeship would come in useful someday !!

The new "loom" goes into the handbook case under the seat where it terminates in a couple of "faston" terminals which the corresponing ones on the USB adaptor plug into.

Done this so I can stick a satnav on the bike as well as being able to charge my phone which I sometimes forget to charge before going out on the bike, also fitted one to my Speedmaster
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By stinkwheel
#100998
Most of the bikes I build these days (admittedly, not the enfield), I fit an auxilliary fuse box under the seat. You get dinky little fuse/relay holder boxes that take a relay and three blade fuses for less than a fiver. I wire it into the bike so the relay is switched from the battery via the brakelight as described above then run a bit of 4-core cable up to the front of the bike carrying three seperate fused supplies and an earth return for accessories. One does the heated grips, another does a charging socket and that leaves a spare (on Mrs stinkwheels bike, for her heated vest).

One refinement I'm going to do on the current one is to add a bypass switch so I can also have the socket powered up with the bike off and key out so I can charge the phone/device with the ignition off (my jap bikes will cope with a phone fully charging right off the battery). I've also got a USB socket with the transformer remote from the socket so I can leave the transformer neatly under the seat next to the fuse/relay box and just have the charging socket up front . I may even panel mount it.

With all the above, I also fit a small LED voltmeter on the dash in paralell with the main switched live at the ignition.
By Dinsdale
#101006
Just looked at Hitchcock's instructions. It says "Connect the two way block connector from the
USB adaptor to the USB sub harness" so not directly to the battery - enabling the ignition to control it and prevent accidental drainage if left plugged in

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