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#100754
Kally wrote:
Sat Apr 23, 2022 6:48 pm
Thanks Vince2 will have a good check behind the headlight and around the head stock when turned.
See if you can get the fault to appear with the bike running on the stand, and watch the ammeter. If you get a strong negative deflection, it means you've got a short somewhere, same checks as for a broken cable, but also check the connections on the casquette tiger eyes/sidelights, as a short there will give the same symptoms.
#100759
My Lightning has done this several times (The tacho has done the same, once). It has always been the copper filaments breaking inside the insulation. The break has always happened where the loom goes under the leading edge of the petrol tank. The actual break is hard to spot as the insulation remains intact.

I've now cut out around a foot of the effected wire and patched in a better quality length.
#100799
:?: Checked all the above mentioned with bike running on the center stand on both left and right full lock and the bike runs fine. I have even banked the bike over a little as I did this and it made no difference! A biker friend has suggested that the fuel/float level may be a bit low starving the bike for a moment when cornering due to inertia so might check that next. Decompressor cable has plenty of slack also. Bit of a mystery this one? regards Kally
#100800
Just to prove it ISN'T the electrical system, try temporarily hot-wiring the battery straight to the coil and see if the problem persists. I've had problems with ignition switches with dodgy soldered connections which worked so long as I remembered to give the wiring a yank to one side every now and again until I could be bothered to replace the switch, also with the battery to ammeter lead breaking around the headstock where it had been flexing and gone brittle.

A.

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