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[stinkwheel]

I'm thinking of doing one on my trials bullet (Indian pre-unit 350) which would solve the issues of the brake camming-on with my over-standard shocks?

How did you attach the rear cable stop? I'm thinking either attached to a plate with a hole in that goes over the pivot-pin bolt with a 90 degree bend under the bottom of the swingarm plate to prevent rotation or drilling and tapping the swingarm plate and bolting a bracket directly to it.

[Nitrowing]

This actually sounds like a good idea.
Have you any photos?
Normally, I'd suggest a disc brake but it would probably be a lot more difficult than adding a pair of cable stops... (and more expensive )

[Duke of Wybourne.]

Have a look at making a plate that mounts via the pivot pin and the wheel spindle. It you mount anything directly to the swinging arm it just means every time you have to adjust the chain you'll probably have to adjust the cable as well. Without having the parts to hand to check, you could probably make a cable support plate that clamps up on the spindle passing through it, and uses the pivot as an anchor via a sliding open "fork" in the plate. Hope that makes sense.

[Wheaters]

My 1961 BSA A7SS had a cable rear brake. You could look at photos of those (A10s, too) for ideas.

Having said that, some owners of those bikes go to the trouble of converting to a pull rod setup because the sponginess of the cable....

Maybe you could do a swap....

[stinkwheel]

Aye, I've had cables before and I'm not a huge fan of them but I'm on my third brake plate, second swingarm and third set of shoes. Not to mention the unanticipated frisson of excitement when a rear brake locks itself on while doing road-speeds on trials tyres. Don't want to be locking the rear anyway, that's a good way to go from minimal grip and control to no control at all.

I'm planning to do some CAD (cardboard assisted design) on it this weekend.

[Daiwiskers]

I seem to remember Suzuki used to use cable rear brakes in the 70s
I'm almost sure my T250 T500 and GT750 had cable rear brakes that worked

Cheer's Dai

[Nitrowing]

My KE100 had a cable front brake (and it was terrible!) but on the rear, I think it would be fine - rears lock up easily anyway.
The shorter the cable, the better.

[stinkwheel]

Ok, progress so far.

Made a steel bracket that fits under the anti-torque pin. I folded down two tabs that engage with the slot to prevent rotation. 4mm steel flat bar and a steel cable guide. As yet not drilled the hole for the ferrule because I don't know the size yet. It's a crusader back plate and brake arm I modified to fit, I've bent the brake arm so it aligns with the bracket, sitcks out less now anyway which is a good thing.



It's probably more heavy duty than it needs to be but my fabrication skills are still decidedly agricultural.


I cut the top bracket out of some high grade 4mm aluminium angle. It's tough stuff, I can't bend it by hand. Drilled an extra hole in the frame gusset for mounting it. Again, no hole for the ferrule yet.




I've ordered a car handbrake cable which was way cheaper than the parts to make my own. It'll be over-long but has the swaged on threaded section on one end to go through the trunnion. I'll be able to cut it back to length then solder on a nipple to engage in the clevis joint.

[mart]

I wonder if you will have sufficient mechanical advantage with your brake pedal leverage? it looks to be about 1:1.
I appreciate a strong rear brake is not important off road but feel is. relocating your clevis nearer the brake pedal pivot would help with power and feel. can you locate the front cable stop below the footrest mount? Its easy to say, not having attempted it and Im sure there are issues with my suggestion. It will be interesting to see how it works.

[stinkwheel]

I think suck it and see. It's easier to start long and make it shorter if i's ineffective. Plan B is to cut the lever down so the clevis is lower down and use the original lever stop as a cable stop.