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By AndrewA
#98608
My 2015 Conti GT 535 has developed a stalling issue, primarily when pulling away from stationary, but also when changing up to 3rd. It has also been blowing the light bulbs.

The only way to avoid the stalling is by giving it way too much throttle before pulling away or by hitting the stater when it happens from 2nd to 3rd.

The issue started after my first tank of E10, so I drained the tank and it now has E5, but no changes.

My local bike shop has had a look, but they couldn’t solve it. They checked the settings and all is as it should be.

It has also not long had a new regulator and spark plug too.

So before I take her over to an Enfield dealer does anyone have any ideas or suggestions please, bearing in mind I am a long way off being a diy mechanic that is?

Cheers Andrew.
By Daiwiskers
#98610
Problems started after changing regulator rectifier? Why was it changed?
That's where I would start looking
The one fill with E10 wouldn't be enough to cause problems with a stock motor so I would look at the last thing that was changed look long and hard at earths
Check voltage across battery with ignition off ignition on and with motor running also earth to frame and motor then check between motor and frame a cheap digital multi meter will be useful useful for all above checks

There are some top people on hear that will help you through if you get stuck

Hope this helps Dai

Don't worry about not being a mechanic you soon will be
By Daiwiskers
#98613
I'm wondering if there's a link between the old regulator going out and what is happening now

Very hard to diagnose without having a bike in front of you doing it this way is more shooting idea's about until we hit the right spot

Battery could be sick taking to much from alternator at low Rev's causing a loss of spark
But without knowing the Numbers we're just guessing and guessing can get expensive!

Hopefully you can get the meter and get back with some numbers

Cheer's Dai
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By stinkwheel
#98616
If it's blowing bulbs, it's almost certainly over-voltage. You probably shouldn't ride it any more until you've checked because you could fry electronics.
By Daiwiskers
#98618
Hold up on the tow to the dealer

There's probably more knowledge on here and we won't try to fob you off with excuses (spelin)

Possibility there will be a member on here that's local to you that would be willing to help out

Hope that males sense Dai
By AndrewA
#98627
Ok, so I have checked the battery as Dai suggested:
Off = 12.64
On = 12.40
Running (no lights) = 14.25
Running (lights) = 12.90

Not sure how I measure the Earth to frame to motor and the motor and frame though, can someone enlighten me please?

Cheers Andrew
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By stinkwheel
#98628
AndrewA wrote:
Mon Oct 18, 2021 6:02 pm
Ok, so I have checked the battery as Dai suggested:
Off = 12.64
On = 12.40
Running (no lights) = 14.25
Running (lights) = 12.90

Not sure how I measure the Earth to frame to motor and the motor and frame though, can someone enlighten me please?

Cheers Andrew
Those seem good. Just check it doesn't go higher than say 15v when the engine is revved up.

To check the frame and engine earth connections, set your meter to measure ohms and check the readings you get between the battery negative and a piece of clean, bare metal on the engine or the frame. It should be zero or a very, very low reading.

One stupid thing to check. Is the sidestand bouncing about when you move off or do an abrupt gear change? I once has a kawasaki that cut out when it went over bumps, it turned out to be the sidestand bouncing up and down enough to operate the sidestand engine cutout switch.

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