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#98194
The Albion 4-speed gearbox was considered a bit clunky and outdated when bullets first came out in the 1950's. They have crammed two extra plates into the original clutch design (hence the two dished plates) so you don't get a lot of lift/seperation on the plate stack. If you set it so you get good release, they tend to slip, if you set it so it grips, they tend to crab when hot.

I usually use three heavy and three light springs, alternating.

I fitted a Japanese clutch lever to mine which made a huge difference. The way it's designed gives a longer pull of the cable for the same lever movement. I have a GPZ500 clutch lever on both my bullets. I also have a Bob Newby clutch on my big bullet which is a thing of beauty and superb functionality but very expensive. The gear shifting is still clunky and error-prone even with a perfectly functioning clutch and aftermarket close ratio gears.

I suppose the thing to remember is you have bought what is to all intents and purposes, a 1950's motorcycle. They ride like one.
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By ssepiol
#98203
Thanks for the response. Just trying to sort out what is normal for these bikes and what needs fixing. I love restoring and fixing old iron, my latest restoration is a 1967 Jeepster Commando and it has it's quirks also.
What year GPZ 500 lever works?
#98205
ssepiol wrote:
Mon Aug 30, 2021 11:43 am
Thanks for the response. Just trying to sort out what is normal for these bikes and what needs fixing. I love restoring and fixing old iron, my latest restoration is a 1967 Jeepster Commando and it has it's quirks also.
What year GPZ 500 lever works?
Any of them but the post '94 ones are span adjustable. Th eearlier ones look more plain, maybe a little more suited to the look of the bike. As I recall, I had to relieve the hole for the nipple very slightly with a drill, hardly removed any metal. I'm using standard cables.
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