Forum

[Clive The Motorcycling God]

Has anyone else found that when you drain the oil from the EFI engine, although the capacity from dry is supposed to be 2.75 litres you can only get about 1.7 litres back in to fill up to the level on the sight glass. Our hosts and also Watsonian suggest this is the case as there are various nooks & crannies where oil collects and doesn't drain. I accept these comments from folks who know but it seems a strange thing to me. The old stuff will just contaminate the new as far as I can see.


Any comments ? 

[martyn]

The book does say 2.75 ltr., I think this is a typo. I usally put back in what comes out (quantity). Always making sure the level is between the 2 marks on the window,-after a slight warm up, and then keeping a check on it. 

[Leon Novello]

That is true, same goes for all the older models, you have to remove every plug underneath the engine, and even then it all doesn`t drain out. It will be interesting to see what happens if these models start to emulsify the oil in cold weather (form mayonnaise) the sight glass will become cloudy, and the oil level won`t be visible.

[grunda 12]

even funnier is that to get the oil out of the primary case you are supposed to lean the bike over to the left hand side while the oil drains out then top the primary case up from the filler hole on the primary case,eassier said than done if you have a sidecar attached!!also what a ridiculous idea changing the oil filter when you get to reffitting without breaking the silly gasket compressing the spring making sure that the washer inside is in place although i,m sure theres a knack to this?

[Jim]

It's all right for you lot that can get down to see the oil sight glass. Us poor oed boogers with bad knees would much prefer a dipstick.

[trevorch]

Very appropriate topic as I just did my first oil change on my new EFI (1 month on the road).


1)Pete Snydal quotes 2.5 liters.


2)Forgot to lean the bike over both way, now full to top of sight glass.


3)How do you position the two "o rings", there is no obvious location at either end of the filter. My model does not have any gasget, but a large o ring under the outer cover. Three screws, not two as Snydal describes.


4)The strainer had lots of metal shavings, also some brown wooly like stuff, never seen before. Both drain plugs include small magnets that were well furred up.


5)The mechical noises from the engine/gearbox are not quieter than my old model. This was a surprise as I assumed that the hydraulic valve lifters would be quieter than tappets.


Any one bought the factory workshop manual, is it worth buying? 


Cheers all 


 


 

[grunda 12]

hi trevorch ,the manual with the pictures of three efi,s on the front cover maybe the factory manual ,i know our host sells it and it can be best described as vague,1 minute its telling you how to do something with the rear brake ,then for no apparent reason it go,s to an engine part something to do with cams or summat then on next page back to the rear wheel ,if you speak to varios sources about doing the same job i.e changing the oil you get 3 different answers!!! but if they bring the cafe racer model out thats been on here and in every classic mag this week i,ll have 1 but may have to fit a diesel engine in it for economy i,m tight and live in yorkshire and have been known to run my bike on the contents of used oil out of my deep fat fryer