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By Adrian
#97047
You should be able to lever the old seal out with an electrical screwdriver.

Ref Spudgun's point about worn bearings, the 1994 Bullet would still have the "distributor" shaft running in plain bearings, which can wear out. This type of assembly runs in quite a slim casting with a grease nipple. After 1998 the 500 Bullets changed to a better design which has the shaft running in proper bearings at both ends, not totally immune to failure, but it could be a worthwhile upgrade.

A.
#97048
I had round two with the Bullet today .
I used the timing instructions in Pete Snidal’s manual this time and used a bulb to indicate when the points opened. Started from beginning again and when done the points baseplate is up against the right hand side of the adjustment track and still too advanced according to timing tool . I did manage to get the engine running but still has hefty kickback and blows carb off inlet rubber mounting .
I still think I need to move points cam and reposition it to allow for some more ignition retardation .
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By Adrian
#97049
Would retarding the timing pinion by one tooth (carefully lift up the upper of the two idler gears just clear and then turn the "distributor" pinion clockwise by one tooth) put the contact breaker cam in a better position without you having to remove the auto-advance unit off its taper?

A.
#97050
Adrian wrote:
Sun Jun 06, 2021 5:01 am
Would retarding the timing pinion by one tooth (carefully lift up the upper of the two idler gears just clear and then turn the "distributor" pinion clockwise by one tooth) put the contact breaker cam in a better position without you having to remove the auto-advance unit off its taper?

A.
Adrian, I would go for loosening the taper and moving the ATU round a little - much easier, quicker and less messy than going into the timing chest, although what you suggest would probably work - it is 18 degrees for 1 tooth, so if the points backplate is hard over one way and correct timing has not been reached, it could be an option.
#97055
If I’m thinking correctly and moving the points cam is somewhat a rule of thumb would it be correct thinking the baseplate adjustment arc is 60 degrees so that I need to move the baseplate 30 degrees clockwise to its midpoint and the points cam 30 degrees anti-clockwise so that it also ends up around the midpoint then tighten down and then go through the ignition timing procedure again ?
By ChrisD
#97059
Andy Freddy. If the engine is running but spluttering etc, you are close to the correct timing but still a bit out. So, yes, you do need to rotate the points plate, but nowhere near as much as 30 degrees (remember the points runs at half speed to the crank).
Note the position of the plate very accurately (I find Typex is wonderful for this), loosen the plate as explained before, then rotate the plate 5-10degrees clockwise relative to the position it had in the distributor. Then attempt timing again. Remember that a 1mm rotation of the edge of the plate (against the distributor casing) equals about 2degrees at crank (the max advance at crank is only ~20 degrees). ChrisD
#97060
Bullet Whisperer wrote:
Tue Jun 01, 2021 8:24 pm
It doesn't matter about the spark plug hole angle, when the plunger of the TDC tool is 8.5 mm on its own scale, before TDC, that will do. No need to over think things!
..i cannot get over it.. thinking about removing the head for timing adjustment, also because i cannot think of a way to make a degree disc and mount it good-centered- or else faulty reading- on the crankshaft..
#97069
Hi Chris ,
I’m aware that I only need to adjust a few degrees but my thinking is if I only move a few degrees to get the correct setting in future I will always be up against the limit of possible adjustment, if I do it the way I am thinking the mechanism will be central again to allow for a range of adjustment if needed in future and perhaps the way it left the factory. Of course moving the units as I stated will replicate the setting I have now but then I allow for a few degrees of retardation of the points cam then hopefully that will give me the area that I need to be in .
By ChrisD
#97071
Andy Freddy. I agree you don’t want to move the plate “just a bit”. But the last thing you want is to move the plate too far clockwise and it won’t even start – then you’re in an even worse position. Remember, if the engine kicks back it is probably because the points opening is too far advanced – so you need to rotate the plate clockwise to retard even further. But you can’t because the slots won’t allow that.
Bear in mind that the ignition timing must now be pretty close in order to run, and that the plate can only rotate some 10-15degrees using the slots (that’s 20-30degrees at the crank). So you need to rotate it clockwise even further. So loosen the plate and rotate it further clockwise so that the present maximum clockwise position (where it runs but spits back etc) is now in the maximum anticlockwise position. That way you start where you are now and have another 10-15degrees movement to play with. Taking the plate off the taper is easy as unscrewing the fixing bolt and screwing in a longer bolt (or place a nail in the hole)– that forces the plate off the taper.

BTW I always fix my timing disc onto the alternator nut – leave the nut on and stick the disc with bluetac. I also added a hex shape in the back of the disc so it sticks firmly to the nut. THEN mark the critical positions on the alternator. You could also fix the disc onto the timing chest where the quill nut is – that way you don’t have to lose any oil.
ChrisD
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