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#97025
Indian Bullet-Wallahs set the static timing then with the points back plate not full tightened, then they start the engine and tap the points round in either direction by tapping the condenser with a screwdriver handle until they achieve the most consistant idle then fully tighten the screws.

That's the way to do it!

:lol:
#97027
stinkwheel wrote:
Fri Jun 04, 2021 11:24 am
jawa-enfield wrote:
No one defending my theory or.. is the timing so inaccurate by the play of the cogs/sprockets/chain/train-thingy that is doe not matter so much and i'm being too precise/insecure/autistic/perfectionalistic?
Pretty much. It'll give you a starting point at best.

If you want to set the timing properly, you'd want a degree wheel and pointer on the end of the crank, then check it with a strobe.

i have printed out a degree disc.. maybe fasten on a CD or cartboard, make a hole exacly in the centre and mount it at the left hand central nut of the crankshaft, if this is much more accurate then the 8,5mm and push the timing spindle 9or axle, or bush? :mrgreen: ) anti-clockwise to push out the play of the eh..other thing..
#97029
Once you've found TDC, rotate the crank anticlockwise to reach the timing point, like would happen under normal operation. I find I can do it manually by rotating the clutch once I have the primary cover off

I used a very strong magnet to hold my degree wheel on the end of the crank nut last time I did it but bolting through is the standard way.

I'll add that it ran no better than when I set it the quicker and more standard way.
#97031
Maybe the backlash and low tuning is 'accepting'for the timing..
By the way, there was quite some oil driping from the ignition cover,, That rubber seal behind the grond plate, is that a 'difficult' English size or can i get it al the local bearing/seal shop?
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By Adrian
#97040
Yes, just one. Our hosts probably thought their customers would like to see both sides. :geek:

You might save a few euro-pennies(cents?) getting them from your local bearing supplier, though the price here isn't that bad!

A.
#97041
Okay, i've read som,ewhere that 'some dribble 'is norma l(is it??) but..
Ehm, is it possible to change it from the outside/whithout disassembling the whole unit?

This is a pic i just took.
Can it be orginal from factoy opr has someone tried to 'fix it' India-style?

@ Adrian no the price is not bad, as more small items from our host but the shipping to my house cost me about a full tank of petrol..
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#97042
I've not done this particular job (my Bullet doesn't have a distributor) but I reckon you could drill a couple of small diameter holes in the seal, screw in self tapping screws and use those to pull the seal out with "Mole"grips, or similar.
#97044
A worn seal usually come with a worn bearing. I had this on my Lightning. I took the easy route and bought a new distributor from our Hosts. Then I stripped out the old unit. The bearings were completely shot! No wonder the timing was so erratic. I now have a re-furbed distributor in the spares box.

Changing the distributor isn't that hard. You will need a hammer though.
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