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#96577
This could be a damaged spark plug seat, just needs a good clean to check and a bit of gentle refacing on a milling machine if so.

However that does not solve the problem of how so much oil is getting past the rings or the valve guides. If your engine experiences the condition known as wet-sumping, i.e. engine oil build-up in the bottom of the crankcase, usually from the timing chest, while the engine isn't running, this can briefly overwhelm the oil scraper ring on the piston - even a good one - when you start the engine and account for some excess oil in the cylinder. The oil scraper ring will usually clear it after a while once the engine has been running for a few minutes.

I can't remember, but have we discussed the oil seal that is supposed to sit behind the crankshaft timing pinion?

A.
#96578
The wet sumping should give smoke art cold start? To be sure i 'park' the bike with the piston at TDC at compression stroke.
All the seals in the engine are new.

When (if) i can get the carb set up reasoanble, i want to try delaying the inlet cam, then i will pay attention how full the timing chest is.

To replace this oil seal you have t split the engine i guess?
Thanks all for thinking with me guys!
#96585
The timing chest should always have oil in it while the engine is in running condition, even when the engine is stopped, as the cams and the follower bases run in the oil that comes down from the rockers, that oil floods the timing chest, with the overflow returning to the oil tank, that's how it's meant to work.

You do NOT need to split the engine to replace the seal behind the crankshaft timing pinion, you just have to remove the timing cover (with something underneath to catch the oil, of course!), undo the worm nut (left-hand thread, remember) that drives the oil pump spindle and then remove the timing pinion itself, which might need one our hosts' extractors.

The seal needs to be fitted with the spring and the lip facing outwards, smooth side towards the bearing, it could possibly have been fitted incorrectly. It's not a large item. 30mm outside diameter, 20mm inside by 7mm thick, but the lip of the seal has to sit on the end of the crankshaft or it won't do any good. Another possibility is that the recess for the seal isn't machined deep enough, you can always try a thinner seal, i.e. 5mm thick instead of 7mm.

But before you try ANY of that, you can simply undo the scavenge strainer plug (the front one) under the engine before you start up and see if you get any noticeable amount of oil coming out after the bike has stood overnight. If it's all clear, then wet sumping is not the issue and you can leave the crankshaft pinion oil seal undisturbed.

A.
#96592
Oil should only be coming out of the big-end in any quantity with the engine running. When you stop the engine there will still be SOME oil in the timing side of the crankshaft which can seep out if the crankshaft is not left at TDC, but I find it hard to believe that that by itself is enough to cause wet sumping.

The oil seal in the worm nut, either cork or neoprene, should not only make sure that the oil which is meant to be fed to the big end doesn't escape into the timing chest, but at the same time it should stop oil which is already in the timing chest finding its way into the crankcase via the big end. The oil seal behind the crankshaft timing pinion is supposed to stop oil leaking from the timing chest along the timing side main shaft and past the timing side main bearing. This oil seal is a change in design by Enfield India, English-built Bullets had a bronze bush instead of an oil seal

If you do need to change this oil seal it's easy enough to prize it out with a small screwdriver, fitting a new one can be done using a tubular drift over the end of the crankshaft to tap it carefully into position.

A.
#96594
That's always the thing with these kind of jobs, having the right diameter tube..
The quill seal (also new) is a cork one, i have a neoprene spare one.

In meanwhile trying to fit new o-ring chain with new sprocket on the diesel 9my other enfield) but the chain is really too short..Argh..

So, because of Dutch holidays it will take some timje before i have an other chain,
i will take attention to this enfield, will check the amount of oil coming out of the front oil plug.. will be back..
#96745
Okay, inspection time. there was quite some oil flowing out of the quill bolt..
And indeed, i mounted the oil seal wrong way around..
@AdrianThanks for the tip!!

But.. how to extract it??
Edit/ I inserted a wood scew (such a point one) anw with a jerk with pliers it came out!
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#96753
Thanks for reply.. someone on YT mentioned a std bullet 500 would become more 'lively'

I did not notice more power in upper range, ( i think even less?)but it does idle a little higher and more stable? And acceleration is not faster but seems 'smoother'.

I do hope i did not damage the new oil seal too much.. Something hard to check..
After i set the inlet cam back, i will top up the oil and keep track again how much it uses..
It does not smoke at all and exhasut end looks 'dry'
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