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By PeteF
#95994
I read somewhere (might have been here) that vibration on the 500 EFIs can be reduced by beefing up the head steady. Some people are fitting two of Hitchcock's upgraded head steadies but that's quite an expensive option especially if it doesn't work (I am from Yorkshire)
So I made some from 20mm x 6mm stainless bar which should be stronger and more rigid.
I also drilled and reamed the boss on the engine out to 10mm so that was more rigid.
The original fastening is an 8mm bolt with a very sloppy fit.
It works, vibration is reduced. It's still a 500 single but better.
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By stinkwheel
#95995
Maybe they should fit one of those big rubber frame mounts like they used on MZs.
By singleminded
#95998
I think not.
The MZ mounting is meant to isolate the engine vibration from the frame. Basically the engine can vibrate without transmitting this vibration to the cycle parts.
The Enfield head steady is meant to rigidly connect the engine to the frame so that the engine's vibrations can be damped by the mass of steel that it is connected to. The standard Enfield head steady is inadequate for this purpose, hence the benefits of making and fitting a stronger structure.
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By PeteF
#95999
Updates.
I slackened the engine mounts to let the engine "sag" onto the new head steady then tightened them up again.
I "think" there is a further improvement.
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By Mann
#96003
Good work Pete, i noticed improved less vibrations (if you know what i mean) when i fitted a double head steady, so a good upgrade. I too drilled out to M10
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By PeteF
#96004
Ah, that's where i got the idea, I'd forgotten. Thanks Mann :D
By Harald
#96038
You can not use a MZ-like rubber mounting for a RE as the frame is not self-supporting and needs the engine as a stabilizing element. Have a look at a MZ frame - the upper tube is very massive.
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If you have the engine removed and you will sit on the RE the bike the frame may bent.
It is a good idea to have a double head stay as the frame may twist due to torsion with only one stay mounted.
By RoSy
#96051
PeteF. Nice head steadies, perhaps you would like to make another pair ? and "gift" ?? them to me?? I don't see a PM facility on this site.
User avatar
By PeteF
#96052
RoSy wrote:
Fri Apr 02, 2021 4:11 pm
PeteF. Nice head steadies, perhaps you would like to make another pair ? and "gift" ?? them to me?? I don't see a PM facility on this site.
Couple of problems there.
First of all the hole centres on the head steady needs drilling exactly to the dimensions on the bike.
Being a RE this can vary quite a bit. The original item is slotted to take this into account. Hitchcocks item is threaded to provide adjustment.
The engine boss is also (probably) offset slightly to the left or right and the plates need tweaking before drilling (or spacers making up)
So I can't really do it without the bike in the workshop (I’m happy to do this if you are within range)
It is, however pretty easy with basic tools (hacksaw, files, drill, vice, hammer)

1. Get some 20mm x 6mm stainless bar (Ebay)
2. Get some suitable 10mm bolts (part threaded – not set screws)
3. Remove seat and tank (or just cock the back of the tank up)
4. Remove existing steady plate
5. Drill engine boss out to 10mm (or ream to exact diameter of bolt if possible)
6. Measure the length, cut new plates and round off the ends
7. Mark out and drill the frame ends of the plates 10mm (step drill works great for this)
8. Offer up one plate and tweak it sideways if necessary (soft hammer in vice) to line up with the engine boss
9. Very carefully mark the hole centre on the engine end of the plate (transfer punch or drill through the boss)
10. Drill out 10mm
11. Repeat on other side
12. Polish the stainless if you want
13. Bolt it up
14. Done :D
By RoSy
#96059
Thanks for the details, I did think after that the centres of the holes may vary bike to bike, I'll have a go at making a pair.

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