Forum

[stinkwheel]

You can expect fundamental quality issues with ANY Indian made iron barrel bullet, be that an official import of a home market version. They were not manufactured to a high standard. However, they are probably still worth spending money on because even really crappy ones are going up in value and parts aren't all that expensive. Also, it's a hobby, you can do stuff to your enfield and it isn't stressful like trying to set up carbs or chase an electrical fault on a japanese inline 4 is.

Regarding the oil pump, just inspect that drive gear for wear and ensure it can be rotated relatively easily with thumb pressure any time you have it off. If it is stiff or binding or worn, take action.

Have you seen our hosts technical info section? There is a nice .PDF document showing how the albion gearbox works. It's kind of animated in that if you click on a page at a time, the gears appear to "shift". You need to view it in a .PDF viewer like adobe and click up and down the pages for the animated thing to work, doesn't work in a browser.
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycl ... 0&_xt=.pdf

Do NOT throw away your brake shoes! The ones for Indian single leading drums are practically unobtainable. Get them re-lined if they become worn. I'd love a full width SLS front end for my trials bike but I don't want to build a wheen then find I can't get brake shoes for it.

[jawa-enfield]

Yes i have seen the illustration on this site about the greabox and now fully understand..
Plan for today is measure the cylinder.. i suspect it is original diameter.. and when i make the decision to go with this engine/gearbox (is not really a choice is there?) it is about time i order the parts..

[jawa-enfield]

I am planning to swap the cast-iron bushes for the layshaft for bronze ones.. But how to remove the right one, which is located in the kickstart assy?

[jawa-enfield]

And since the original valve spings can break with a lot of damage in result, there are only stiffer non-India springs?
I would like them equal in stiffness, but not prone to break.

[jawa-enfield]

Best way to relieve pressure on the feed pump is a needle roller big end

I fear you are running into the realms of fixing stuff that isn't broken. I wasn't aware broken valve springs were a [particular thing. I've broken a valve before.

I fitted a scavenge pressure relief valve to my 612 bullet because I'm using the samrat rockers with the o-rings in place which can cause a pressure build-up and the high flow pumps. Many people just miss out the o-rings and relieve the oil exit hole from the rockers so there is plenty of oil flow.

I actually took the high flow pumps back out of my 350 bullet because I felt they were flowing way too much oil up to the top end and causing it to burn oil down the valve guides.

On the German enfield forum, someone claimed jamming of the samrat's due to the o-rings and broken valve spring, bend valve and piston damage.. Safer to leave the o-rings out>?

[stinkwheel]

I've said this before. ARE bullet valve springs prone to breaking? You keep saying this but I've never seen a post about it up on this forum before. Even if they do, of the problems they have, I suspect this isn't the biggest one.

Who told you bullet valve springs are prone to breaking or what did gave you the idea this is a common problem? I'd suggest you re-Consider if this was a reliable source of information. Googling for broken enfield valve springs doesn't come up with many results.

Regarding the samrat rockers. If you aren't running with a scavengeside pressure relief valve, most people recommend running them without the o-ring and also drilling the oil hole to 2.5mm as per our hosts instructions (if you got it from them, this will already have been done).

[jawa-enfield]

On the Dutch and German forum broken valve springs are quite frequent..

[jawa-enfield]

Cannot get the iron layshaft bush out of the kickstart unit.. someone linked me a method involving bread and a hammer.. might as well try it...

[stinkwheel]

Also try heating the outside.

Of course, the ideal tool is a blind bearing puller.

[Wheaters]

In the past I’ve pulled closed bushes out of a blind hole using a slide hammer made from a “Rawl” expanding eye bolt. They come in a variety of diameters.

The eye bolt is simply inserted into the bush and tightened up so it grips the inner surface, as if it’s in a hole drilled in a wall, which is what they’re designed for. I used a length of threaded rod with one end bent into a hook (these days I’d weld it directly onto the eye, rather than hooking it through the eye) and an old diving belt weight as the slide and hammer part. A couple of repair washers and a nut on the threaded rod give the hammer something to hit against. You then slide the hammer outwards, shocking/pulling the bush.

If the bush is open at both ends in a blind hole you can use piece of round steel bar (or a big bolt) to make a mandrel which is a close sliding fit in the bush. If you then fill the bush with grease, insert the mandrel and hit it with a mallet the pressurised grease will, with any luck, push against the edge of the bush from the inside and force it out of the hole.