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#93903
So, bronze layshaft bushes are on the list... but what and how about the upgraded oil pump?
(and this;
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycl ... case/18466

is not a oil pump? How does this help??

I came to understand that when fitting a 'better'oil pump you need a pressure relief valve to spare the pump drive sprocket.
Someone in Germany had his one leaking resulting in a jammed big end..

Is the std one really that bad?
#93909
Wheaters wrote:
Wed Nov 11, 2020 10:22 am
jawa-enfield wrote:
Mon Nov 09, 2020 1:47 pm
That is a huge difference!
There are no 'aftermarket'valve springs offered?
I think i will add the samrat rocker set to the -to buy- list
Competition valve springs are sold by Mr. H.: Part #VS420A
i really do not want stiffer springs as they will strain the cams and valve train a big deal, just want a pair which do not break.
#93913
I doubt that "after market" springs would be any less prone to breakage than the standard ones. If the factory fitted ones were prone to breakage, after 70 years (and I've not heard any evidence that they are), surely someone would have produced "unbreakable" springs - except that there is no such thing as unbreakable springs. ;)
#93914
Best way to relieve pressure on the feed pump is a needle roller big end ;)

I fear you are running into the realms of fixing stuff that isn't broken. I wasn't aware broken valve springs were a [particular thing. I've broken a valve before.

I fitted a scavenge pressure relief valve to my 612 bullet because I'm using the samrat rockers with the o-rings in place which can cause a pressure build-up and the high flow pumps. Many people just miss out the o-rings and relieve the oil exit hole from the rockers so there is plenty of oil flow.

I actually took the high flow pumps back out of my 350 bullet because I felt they were flowing way too much oil up to the top end and causing it to burn oil down the valve guides.
#93929
The pump piston can foul the casting slightly. The machining where both the drive shaft and the disc face runs is also not precice and can require lapping-in.

They can be stiff/a poor fit from the factory leading to excessive wear on the drive gears. the following picture os a drive gear removed from an engine I was refurbishing which won't have been touched since fitted at the factory. Below it is a new one. When those teeth get worn so thin they bend over, your engine dies.
Image

Here's how you want it. https://youtu.be/N1pUe9oW93E
#93972
Thanks for the post. I don't think i understand the oil pump stoy fully, will look after more coffee.

so, the layshaft of the bullet is damaged.. the studs are worn (too soft?) pushing the cogs of the 2nd and 3rd (?) aside..

(i was scanning YT for a vid of how the gearbox operates exactly.. aside form Indian men with loud squeeky voices yelling in hindi fumbling with the sprocket i did not find such? Tips/links welcome.. when i see our host's close ratio set i realize i do not fully understand how it works)

Anyway, i realised something.
Bike had a mono-front brake at purchase.
-17T sprocket
-Iron-cast layshaft bushes.
-Was imported by a privvate person.. i have the papers and 'expert version'is not to be found..

Before i spend a shitload of money in this enfield.. can i expext (more..)fundamental quality issues regarding the rest of the whole bike?

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