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#93908
Here, i dismanteled it again, her is the wheel on a bench, clamped by the axle.
The brake plate can tilt a little towards every direction when installed (whithout central nut)

1 When you apply force by hand on the main brake lever, you will have to pull the lever, or it will not move, by pulling it, you de-centralize the whole thing.and that is exactly what you do NOT want. I cannot explain more logic in this language.

2-When you apply force by hand on the brake lever, you have to aplly some force, also to stabilize the wheel, This will result problably in tilting the brake plate over the axle one way or a other, you cannot see this.

One way you find this out, by applying froce to the brake lever with one hand, trying yet to stabalize the whole thing, and twisting down the nut. when ready, the brake plate and central nut has - again- play and is loos again, as result of having it tilted when twisting down.

so.. HOW can one single person, being alone centering the brake plate by plulling the brake lever, applying force on it, WHITHOUT decentralising it AND twisting down the nut???
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#93910
Hi, spin the centre nut on so its just loose ,slide the ring spanner over the axle onto the nut. Using the base of your palm on the lever grip the axle with your fingers and pull the brake on then tighten the nut. Q. How do you test if the brake is working? You will need quite a few miles to bed them in. Pushing it down the drive and saying its useless is not enough. After a few miles the shoes will show witness marks how much is in contact. Vince. Ps loose backplates can break forks and as I found to my cost swingarms!
#93915
The long arm appears to have a return spring fitted (my own bike doesn't have one of those). The photo shows that it is not fitted correctly; the curved end should be looped over the other side of the arm. It's doing nothing as it is, except perhaps getting in the way. Is this what is causing the brake arm to stick in the on position?

Secondly, the centre of the brake plate and the axle where the threads for the nut are look quite rusty. I'd want to clean them up and apply a thin smear of grease to prevent further corrosion. If the nut is jamming on the rusty threads it won't be easy to tighten it without the brake plate moving.

Really, I can only suggest at this late stage you get the bike to a bike shop and let someone else have a look at it.
#93916
More info; adjusted brake again with ziptie method, brake felt 'hard' came back freely everytime/no drag!
Test ride of an hour. beginning felt promising, suddenly sponzy and very lazy/no brake.

It is normal with the enfield that the brake gets less responsive over time and needs re-adjusting (i guess because of a-symmetrical brake plate), but not in one drive.
Found this in the drum
Brake did not drag and came back feely and has a lot of play
hope did not destroy drum nr 3
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#93917
Wheaters wrote:
Wed Nov 11, 2020 1:05 pm
The long arm appears to have a return spring fitted (my own bike doesn't have one of those). The photo shows that it is not fitted correctly; the curved end should be looped over the other side of the arm. It's doing nothing as it is, except perhaps getting in the way. Is this what is causing the brake arm to stick in the on position?

Secondly, the centre of the brake plate and the axle where the threads for the nut are look quite rusty. I'd want to clean them up and apply a thin smear of grease to prevent further corrosion. If the nut is jamming on the rusty threads it won't be easy to tighten it without the brake plate moving.

Really, I can only suggest at this late stage you get the bike to a bike shop and let someone else have a look at it.
The spring helps to get the brake free in neutral position, see my previous post. I explained it why. arm must be pulled DOWN for return position, also on your bike.

The brake comes free every time, does not stick and has free play. The brake does not drag. there is no contact between the linings and drum in rest position
it rains a lot over here so rust comes, but is no problem to secure the nut in any position

There are no bike shops where they have a clue about drum brakes, let alone this one.
I have more bikes, and had many more with TL drum brakes, no problem. This one is strange. does not listen to reality.
#93919
The spring helps to get the brake free in neutral position, see my previous post. I explained it why. arm must be pulled DOWN for return position, also on your bike.
Yes, obviously. But from the photo it looks like it's not actually pulling the arm down, but more likely to prevent downward (clockwise) movement, which should take place under the influence of the two springs between the shoes. The curved part of that spring should be over the top of the arm with the bike upright. At the moment it's below it.
#93925
Wheaters wrote:
Wed Nov 11, 2020 7:13 pm
The spring helps to get the brake free in neutral position, see my previous post. I explained it why. arm must be pulled DOWN for return position, also on your bike.
Yes, obviously. But from the photo it looks like it's not actually pulling the arm down, but more likely to prevent downward (clockwise) movement, which should take place under the influence of the two springs between the shoes. The curved part of that spring should be over the top of the arm with the bike upright. At the moment it's below it.
Ah my dear sir i ow you an apologie!
In the picture i have the spring released for adjusting-by-hand purposes!
This is the answer to the riddle..
In meanwhile serious thinking about buying another wheel.. maybe bad luck on the carbon level in the drum?

Still wondering why the brake went form almost-reasonable to totally shit in 10 minutes..

Shame that jawa has no drum's in this dimension one can build in. Jawa drum brakes are very well machined and work quite well.

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