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#90955
Let's adjust the brake from scratch

Measure the cams centre to centre

Using adjusting rod set trunnion centre's to the same distance with the lever unit off the bike

Refit wheel fully loosen the cable

Refit the lever unit do not readjust it fit cable to the long arm adjust up the cable until brake is just binding then back off the cable adjuster until wheel is free to spin

That's it job done

I really can't fathom out what is wrong with this bike I believe that it has had three hubs three brake plates eight sets of shoes two cables

I just don't know Dai
#90959
OK their is a bit more to it than that but not much, just take up the free play in the linkage apply brake gently and check for any looseness at trunnions and check once bedded in

But like I said this brake has been a problem for year's

I'm stumped Dai
#90964
Bullet Whisperer wrote:
Mon Jun 22, 2020 6:51 am
It might be a bit of a fiddle and maybe best with the wheel off, but, apply the brake and hold it on whilst doing the nut up tight.
The difficulty I have with this seemingly simple procedure is that the nut has a radius on the mating surface with the brake plate. Therefore, as the nut is tightened, it can move the plate sideways (a tiny amount) so that the radius on the nut mates with the recess in the plate.
Therefore, it seems to me that the usual centring of the plate cannot happen when the brake is held on and the nut tightened.

When I first bought my Bullet, the previous owner had fitted Hitchcock's shoes and cable. It was awful. I checked the adjustment and it was still awful. A few miles of riding on quiet roads using the brake frequently from increasingly higher speeds allowed it to bed-in and work well. There was even a noticeable self-servo effect.

Fast-forward to tyre-change time and I discovered that the central nut had not been tightened properly. The brake plate wobbled slightly when the wheel was removed.
Before refitting the wheel, I cleaned the drum, replaced the plate and tightened the central nut (with the brake held on.)

I went for a ride and the brake was awful again......so I repeated my on-the-road bedding-in procedure and it is now good again.
I wonder if Dai is not allowing/assisting the brake to bed-in sufficiently?
#90965
Not me singleminded

I learnt how to adjust TLS brakes back in the 70s (ferodo green linings anyone)

It's Jawa-enfield that has the problem I'm just trying to help out the poor fella

Shame he's not in the UK

I just can't understand why all the brake components have been swapped out it still won't work?
#90970
It's easy enough to get these brakes working well if you know how. But it has to be done properly or the brake is only working on one shoe.

I've followed previous posts from this member and in this case, it seems there's only one thing that hasn't been changed. Without wishing to cause any offence, I have to say that I think a second pair of eyes and hands is needed. ;)

One further thing. The brake arms on these hubs are splined and can be wrongly fitted, so that they aren't at 90 degrees to the inner cable when the brake is hard on. If they have gone past 90 they lose leverage and this can affect the force applied to the shoes.

My first two wheeler back in the early 1970s failed its MOT because of this problem, even though it had new shoes fitted and the drum wasn't worn. It was difficult to sort out and probably a design fault because the arms were on a square peg, rather than splines. I sorted that by shimming out the ends of the shoes. I thought the MOT tester was being unreasonable until he explained why it was important to have the arms just coming to 90 degrees as the brake was applied fully.
#91091
Hey replies! i did not get a notice from it..
I still have only 2 hands, so cannot hold the plate secure, pull on the brake and tighten the nut.
One problem is athe asymmetry of the cam axle holes from the central hole..
i reduced the brake cams so the unevenness in shape is also reduced and more torque against the drum.
someone here mentioned levating the central nut loose so the druk can postion itself, which maty be a good idea because the cam holes.. well are they straight and 90 degrees from the plate? If yes the 'tolerances'will give the second, or 3rd problem.

Yes the front brakeis untill now the most expensive part of the bike, and still no result.
Has someone try fitting a 1968-1970 triumph/BSA DL front brake in an enfield?
#91092
Put the axle in a vice or hold with mole grips, use a bit of copper or similar to protect the axle

Grip the speedometer side of the axle tighten nut with box spanner or socket

If you feel the need to apply brake do this with one hand tighten nut with the other

Still not sure why you reduced the cams or quite what you mean
In my mind (bad place to go) reducing the cams will reduce the braking affect

Dai

Edit from what I remember the triumph TLS front brake was no better than the bullet brake

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