Forum

[Kentish Man]

Took the bike off the road today due to a number of faults:-
All indicator bulbs blown.
All sidelight bulbs blown, including recently fitted LED's .
Head Gasket weeping badly, oil blowing onto battery area.
Noise from primary case.

As I removed the starter motor ages ago due to sprag clutch issues, I am thinking to remove the unwanted gears, and also fit 20t gearbox sprocket while primary apart.
Replace Head gasket with composite type.
investigate electrical surge, possible new reg/rec.

Our son has just given me back the GSX600F Teapot I gave him a while ago, so going to smoke about on that ………..

[Adrian]

Unless the engine is highly tuned I suspect you will find 20T on the gearbox sprocket will leave the whole plot way over-geared. As a taller and lardier rider I found that even the standard 18T left the bike struggling in top, if you're leaner and fitter than me (not difficult) you might get some benefit from a 19T.

Check the barrel and head joint faces carefully, I once bought a brand-new head (not from our hosts) where the Chennai milling machine had left a nice wavy finish on the joint face. I was able to re-face it on a piece of plate glass with a well-wetted sheet of wet and dry. Wellseal recommended.

Replacing the original reg/rectifier is probably a good idea after thirteen years. Did the bulb/LED destroying incident not wipe out the fuse, too? Usual checks on earth and main power connections needed, of course.

A.

[stinkwheel]

Definately check the voltage output.

Maybe worth a continuity check on the alternator phases too. The primary noise and the overpower may be one and the same issue. I'd check the stator is in good order and the air gap is correct, if it's been rubbing, you could have an internal short somewhere. See if the noise gets louder when the lights are on (increases load).

A top tip for setting up the alternator is to shim under each coil with a slice of aluminium drinks can and tighten it up so they can all be easily removed once the nuts are done up.

[Adrian]

Can't do that with the Electra-X alternator, unfortunately, the stator is fitted to the outer cover and can't be mounted without it, though looking for signs of contact/rubbing would be worth while.

A.

[stinkwheel]

We live and learn. I thought the electra X one was the same as on the bullets. Still worth checking though, apparent charging issues AND primary noise...

[Wheaters]

My 350 Bullet Electra has that same electrical system. Unlike the traditional type, the rotor is a large cup-like device and it rotates outside the stator, rather than inside it.

The ignition sensor triggers via a metal bar target on the outside face of the rotor. The good thing is that there’s not much to go wrong because there are no moving parts. The downside is that there is no facility to check or adjust the ignition timing. Which frustrates owners like me who like to fettle and adjust to get the best out of any engine.

[ericpode]

My Electra X came with a 19t gearbox sprocket when I bought it. 5th gear was like an overdrive and the bike never felt happy.
Fitted a correct 18t during the winter and it's a much nicer ride now.
Also noticed the 19t sprocket was forcing the chain to rub on part of the inner primary casing. You may have to mill some away to enable 20t.

[Kentish Man]

Thanks for all the advice, that's what these forums are for. very sheepishly removed primary chaincase, expecting bits to fall out, cut alternator wires etc, nothing, except slack chain..... alternator stator looks good like Adrians photo. Got the gearbox sprocket size wrong, its a 19T i would like to fit. the bike always feels it could pull another tooth, and have done our hosts stage 1 mods ( page 50 2018/19 parts catalogue).
Except the 32mm concentric, which may come later . i'm a smaller slightly built rider, suited to smaller machines.
rode bike home, no fuses blown. engine running ok.
12v to indicator flasher unit, and sidelights with ignition on, engine off.
can i remove the cylinder head without taking the engine out?
best regards from the garden of England.

[stinkwheel]

It's the voltage across the battery with the engine revved up that's the rub. Any more than say 15v and your regulator is goosed.

[Adrian]

can i remove the cylinder head without taking the engine out?

Yes, you'll be fine.

Watch out for the cylinder head nuts, if they're the factory originals you will need a long-series M12 socket to shift them as for some reason the cylinder studs are over-length.

You don't need a special tool to remove the rocker shafts, an M8 bolt will insert quite happily, but don't lose the spring washer thingies between the rockers and the head casting. They can be fiddly to re-fit, too.

A.