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#90942
“What a pain the rear brake is on my C5...“

“ the EFI caused a few issues‘

You’re not selling it RB ;)

You’re in favour of EFI. What is your feeling of EFI etc on a bike at least 15 years old plus? I get a bit panicky about older computers and sensors etc.


John
#90947
The age of an ECU and to a lesser extent sensor etc doesn’t really bother me. In my experience silicon chip technology goes wrong in the first year if it’s going to. It’s usually the sensors that are affected by heat cycles as they age eg crank position sensors on Hinckley Triumphs and others, HES on BMWs. But these weak points are all known about on the various forums, usually with a suitable fix. Wiring/connectors can give trouble eventually too, particularly the large collection of wires near the headstock, subject to a lot of stretching and movement as typically the cables aren’t quite long enough. It was all supposed to be doom and gloom in the car world when catalytic converters, airbags, fuel injection were first fitted but really they are much more reliable than the carb cars of the sixties and seventies. Nobody decokes a modern car or bike ( though the UCE bikes can need it) and serviced properly most will easily last 100,000 miles, partly more accurate fuelling and partly better oil.
I stand by my earlier comments on UCE bikes - the later the better. Also, to be frank, if owners just left them alone most of them would be fine, but the temptation to remove the bazooka and to tune them for more go is too great. I often wonder if those who never frequent forums and just use the bikes serviced at the specified intervals have a trouble- free bike. Ignorance is bliss... But no, some owners feel the need to change the oil five times in the first 1500 miles and only to use the brand of oil specified by the manufacturer. If you really want to know about the early UCE models and their faults look at the early 2009-10 posts on classic motor works. I learned a long time ago to let others be the pioneers on buying new models; I wait to see how many arrows they have in their back when they return....
#90952
As were still a mile off topic
The oil heads hall sensor problems were very often not the hall sensor, but the wiring to the sensor melting
Why did BMW see fit to fasten it where they did?
By Chris H.
#90962
Are you sure the ticking is not coming from the air injector?
They give a very annoying tick not unlike a poorly adjusted tappet.
You can buy an air deletion kit from our hosts if you want to get shot of the noise.
Chris H.
By Harald
#90966
Yes, I am sure that it is not the air injector as I already checked it - but thanks for your hint.
Meanwhile there are new additional findings.
After replacing the crumbly O-ring all looked fine, but I was curious how the valve drive overcame the lack of oil. So I disassembled the rocker bearings and took out the rocker arm. And really - the lack of oil did some havoc.
Both rocker assemblies do not look good, while the inlet valve rocker is worse. The bearings are discolored and have some grooves. The rocker arm at the valve end is heavily worn and outworn 0,1 mm in the place where it touches the valve shaft end.
Luckily, I opened the engine to have a look myself and not following the statement of the dealer and the RE Aftersales Manager to ride on and do not care about the "normal" noise.
Of course, this defect is very annoying, but easy to fix. Our host is already involved and sending new rocker sets.
One question is left : There are provision for an O-ring at the bottom of the rocker bearings to prevent oil leakage between the cylinder head body and the rocker bearings, but on both rockers there was no such O-ring installed. As I understand it there is a potential oil leak at this place that may reduce the oil supply of the rockers. When installing the new rocker sets I will add O-rings.
I already sent a rapport to the RE factory with pictures attached requesting their statement. I am curious how they will excuse the epic fail of their Aftersales Manager and the behavior of their dealers.
#90968
Good luck with this I hope they step up and you aren't left out of pocket

You missed out the picture I would have liked to see, the rocker bearing surface

Good luck Dai
By Harald
#90969
Thanks for the wishes.
The first picture is the lower part of the rocker arm bearing. I will attach the picture of the upper part and the rocker arm axle. There is not so much damage, but some grooves and the discoloration is a sign that it got hot.
#90971
Thank's Harald, they look better than I thought they would

Hopefully you have caught it in time !

Wonder what the after sales manager will say when he sees this? I suppose he has to back his dealer but now you have proof that the dealer was wrong

Happy we're back on topic Dai
By Harald
#90973
Yes, I think I got it right in time and did stop the engine. I only had to ride two times to the dealer and back home - approximately 10 km. However, you are right - when comparing the bearings with the rocker arm the bearings are looking quite good. It looks like that there was an oil supply to the valve drive, but not enough to lube the rocker arm end where it touches the valve. Inside the bearing block there is a small canal ending in a drill where the oil spurt out in direction of the rocker arm end and valve shaft end to lubricate their touching surfaces. As the hole is rather tiny it needs a lot of pressure to deliver the required amount of oil, while the groove delivering oil to the rocker arm axle is much larger. It looks like the amount of oil available was just enough for the rocker arm axle, but not for the rocker arm end and valve shaft end.
I will attach two more pictures showing the amount of abrasion to the rocker arm end.
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