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[Harald]

An update:
I made the test suggested by the RE staff with the following result: When tilting the bike to the right side, the ticking sound slightly decreases, when tilting the bike to the left side, the sound increases. So far, RE seems to be on the right track.
@ Haggis : Thanks for the video link concerning the cam gear with the automatic decompressor items installed. A good explanation. I already know the sound of the automatic decompressor, but we are talking about a different sound - a ticking one.
A possible explanation how such a sound is correlated to the automatic decompressor you may find here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTrAjpSpUcM
The RE Aftersales Manager talked about exactly this problem concerning a bent spring. So I am curious if that is the issue.

[Haggis]

I cant see how a problem with the spring can cause your noise?
You can just take the spring out and run without it as the decompessor will be inactive all the time.
It needs the spring to pull the weight inwards to lift the actuator.
Bending the spring to put more force on the bobweight will make the decompessor active for longer so may become audible at normal tickover speeds.
Bending the spring to make it weaker or less force will make the decompessor inactive sooner withless chance of ever hearing it.
But that would be decompessor sound and not tick tick sound.
You leaning the bike left or right and changing the sound MAY be end float on the cams?
Until someone removes the engine cover and correctly checks the cam backlash a plus end float you will just be guessing.

[windmill john]

Haggis, purely for my learning curve, even though I don’t have this engine, is there a decent video/explanation on how you sort out the backlash. I have watched a couple of videos but I’m a little confused about four and a half minutes in one of them to what he’s doing with the cam. I can see he’s rotating it but I can’t see by how much and to what position, thanks.
I do have a 2002 350 Bullet.

This is the video I watched:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LF2hCvyMQ7Y


John

[Haggis]

What he's doing is correct, you need to remove any load on the cams so that there is nothing that disguise any play.
Then set the backlash between the exhaust cam and the crankshaft first. The cam spindle is eccentric so as you rotate it the gear teeth are moved closer or further away from the crank gear teeth.
You want no play between the teeth but the cam should still slide easily on its shaft.
It's best to rotate the crank and check in more than one position.
Hes checking just after max cam lift as that is where the transition period from the cam lifting up and the valve spring pushing down as the cam goes over.
This is where any play and ticking noise is likely to be.
Once you have adjusted the exhaust cam backlash you then adjust the backlash between the inlet cam and exhaust cam.

[windmill john]

Thanks for that clear explanation. I’ll re-watch the video armed with your info.



John

[Rattlebattle]

Just done the job today; it's straightforward though a little fiddly because, like adjusting valves, tightening the locknut affects the setting so you have to allow for it. I got as far as fitting the cylinder head today; just the valve gear, carb and exhaust and I'll see if it lives again! I do sincerely hope the noise has gone; it's been a long and sometimes difficult process completely dismantling, repairing and rebuilding the motor....

[Harald]

Yesterday I had the meeting with my dealer and the RE Aftermarket Sales Manager for Europe to find out more about the ticking sound in my 500 UCE EF with some frustrating results.
The manager intended to connect the dealers computer diagnose system to the bike to read out any fault codes. The dealer brought the brand new never used equipment and the manager had to explain the dealer and his staff the function of the system and how to use it. Ad hoc dealer schooling in front of the customer.
Concerning the fault codes – there were no ones. Next, the manager tilted the bike to both sides, but the ticking sound did not really change. Next, he fetched his smartphone showing a video to demonstrate how a defective hydraulic lifter sounds. A real proof that my hydraulic lifters have to be ok.
When turning the throttle the ticking sound on my bike was clearly audible. The manager had no real idea and stated the RE bikes are handmade and the quality varies, so each bike sounds different. Unfavorable tolerances may be the reason for the strange sound. For demonstrating and proofing this, he went to a second customer’s bike in the dealer’s courtyard and started the engine of this dirty, rusty and decrepit Classic 500 “Desert Storm” with a total mileage of 40.000 km. The motor was rumbling, the silencer emitted a cloud of dark smoke, but there was no ticking sound. The manager explained that there is a ticking sound, but you cannot hear it, as the other mechanical noise is so loud. A good proof that the ticking sound is quite normal and no reason for any activities.
Of course, I was curious which items inside the motor could create the ticking sound if we take in account that it suddenly appeared during a ride, and I asked this question three or four times in different ways. There was no satisfying answer, but the repeated statement that unfavorable tolerances may be responsible.
So I asked for the cam gear’s clearance as a possible reason. The manager commented that this could be the reason for the sound and advised the dealer to check it during the 3000 km inspection (what means to ride for further 1800 km with the strange sound of indefinite source).
One of the dealer’s workshop staff asked what is about the cam gear clearance and how to adjust it.
Well, the dealer tried to explain. In his opinion there are two gears just beside each other and the two gears are coupled by a common spring that will brace the tow gears to prevent any backlash. Well, there such constructions – but not inside a Royal Enfield UCE. I doubt that my dealer will be able to check the cam gear and adjust the correctly.
Afterwards I discussed with the After Sales Manager the usefulness of a Carberry vibration reduction plate in an UCE. As this plate is not a genuine RE factory product, he cannot say anything about it he stated. As the dealer never heard about such a plate the manager had to explain that such a plate would greatly reduce vibrations as there is an additional needle bearing installed in the plate that supports the generator-end of the crankshaft that itself runs only in two bearings and that the generator rotor may produce bad vibrations. Well, all this facts were completely new for the dealer.
I doubt that the dealer ever saw a RE engine from the inner side.

All this brought no news concerning the ticking sound of my engine, but some very interesting insights in the dealer’s competence.
Well, now I concluded that the best way to find the source of the strange ticking sound is to open the motor myself and see what I will find – no matter of losing the factory warranty. During the last fourty years, I maintained my motorbikes and kept them running myself without any dealer or workshop, with the help of my professional background in repair and maintenance activities.
I will update you when the source of the ticking sound is located and the noise eliminated.

[Rattlebattle]

Dear God, what a useless pair of idiots! The Carberry won’t produce a cure. On balance they are useful, but mainly to give extra support to the crankshaft that has a long overhang from the timing side needle roller bearing. I reckon it’s probably just the backlash. You should check the operation of the exhaust cam decompressor too while you’re in there - the spring has been known to be a problem. Just be sure to position the crank at tdc on the firing stroke and you’ll see the dots line up on the cams. Remove the pressure on the cams by removing the rocker covers ( reuse the old gaskets) then check for easy movement of each cam along the spindles and for play - an obvious clicking noise- as you check the exhaust cam against the crank pinion then the inlet against the exhaust cam. I feel you should do this before fitting a Carberry ( if you’re going to) as this way you won’t mask the true issue. Good luck - oh, just do the job on the side stand - no need to drain the oil.

[Daiwiskers]

Having watched the videos on this I also feel it's a backlash issue

The problem your having is having to talk to a dealer who wants to make money by selling you the bike
And talking to the sale's manager that also wants to make money by selling you the bike

Neither want to put their hands in their pockets to sort your issue

What too do?
Fix it yourself? The problem then is do you lose your warranty?
Is that warranty worth having?
So far it seems not!
If you can fix it yourself without marking any of the nuts bolts etc (a food bag used over the sockets spanners etc here will help) you can tell your dealer the noise just went away and they will be none the wiser and you will still have the remainder of the warranty

Good luck with it Dai

[windmill john]

The great thing about this forum is the combined knowledge.

When I had my BM Airheads, my knowledge was better than some BM dealers. Not because I’m clever, far from it, but I’d had Airheads for a while and used the BM Riders forum a lot.

So I’m pretty confident that certain chaps on here know more than the newer RE dealers.

So.... if I do get a new 500, I’ll be doing the first oil change myself, I’m not having someone bugger up my drain plugs.