Hitchcocks Forum

There is a question for my knowledge later, but the first big is just an observation.

2002/3 350 Bullet

As a newbie to the RE world, I’ve just adjusted my drive chain. Now that I’ve done it once, it is very straightforward, but had I not read the workshop manual, I would not have undone the ‘rear brake anchor pin nut’

Interesting the way the right hand side of the axle seems to swing away from the snail adjuster, had to hold the wheel to the left to line up whilst tightening. I assume something is under tension in there.

And what a difference in chain slack one notch on the adjuster makes! Went from way too loose to the short side of correct tension. Don’t worry, I have the right amount of slack, I’m fully aware of tight chain issues.

I’ve used snail adjusters before, 70s 80s traillies.

Okay, a question out of interest. What is the stub axle nut for, behind the castle nut?

Never had a bike with two nuts, not the riders! Is this something to do with the fact the rear wheel is detachable without sprocket?

Thanks


John

Loosen both for chain adjust just un nip them don't back right off then wheel should adjust easily

Your right stub axle can stay tight for wheel removal without messing with chain tension
Take care all Dai

Remember to re-adjust the back brake tension.

Order of operations is reasonably important. You can land up with the brake drum on the piss and the pads making angled contact (feels spongy).

Once I have the chain adjusted, I usually hold the rear brake on (which holds the drum square on the shoes) then nip up the stub axle and anchor pin nuts before releasing it so it's all locked-down square.

As above. The stub-axle means you can remove the rear wheel without touching the brake or chain tension.

Once again Stinkwheel has given a better explanation than me

Had to read those a couple of times...

Thanks both. So, undo only castle nut to remove wheel.

I found that I really had to undo both to get the snails loose.

I did hold the brake down whilst tightening the brake nut, but I cannot recall if I left the stub nut loose. I think I may have tightened the stub nut, held brake, tightened brake nut, then tightened the castle nut.

It all seems good but not road tested yet.

If I have done above, I guess you would advise loosening all three a tad, tighten brake nut whilst holding pedal down. And then the stub and castle?

Loosen both to adjust chain
Just undo castle nut for removing wheel
If not removing the wheel just crack nuts don't undo completely
You will find it easy once you have done it a couple of times
As Stinkwheel said adjust brake when done

Take care all Dai

Thanks Dai, it looks like I’ll need to revisit it. No problem.

John

Aha, I had done it correctly, just checked manual again

Adjust chain, tighten stub nut, hold brake, tighten brake nut, tighten castle nut.

My work here is done

Glad you're done hope I didn't make it more confusing

Thanks Dai, today was meant to be tappet day on my Transalp. I bottled it once I got down to removing the throttle bodies. I’ve done tappets before on a carbed Transalp. I just get frustrated with higher tech bikes. The fact you need to remove so much to do some jobs.

My BM Airheads, tappet adjustment, 15 to 30 minutes. Transalp, 5 hours!

Looking at bikes in general, the faster you go, the more..... stuff you have to do to maintain.