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[Lee June woo]

Hello again.

I got dragging problem.

My bike is 2006 5 speed left gear change bullet 500(612 conversion).

I`m using improved 5 plate clutch and other things are stock.

The problem is...

I adjust clutch very well by following manual. (release all tension and release lock nut, adjust, feeling light resistance than stop and reverse 1/2~1/4 and lock again...)

and actually clutch is nice. no dragging no slip. but this sweet condition is collapse when I ride about 20 min.

I trying adjust clutch using screw of clutch lever but there is clear limitation. (I pull all cable than clicking sound came up from right side of gearbox when I using clutch lever)

and end of the riding, the gear is totally stuck so I can`t move the gear change lever to neutral.

I think some parts expanded by friction and it makes clutch diversion get more tight.
However I don`t have any Idea what exact happening in my gearbox!!

I usually ride my bike in downtown. (I live in Seoul. so...) Signal stand by could be make this problem?

of course clutch and friction plate expand when engine running but this clutch diversion spectrum is too wide.


I`m considering that using bearing pad. Is it good for dragging problem?

I waiting for your advice.

Thanks to read.

regards,

Lee June Woo

[stinkwheel]

I (and I'm sure many others) also have problems with the clutch grabbing on a standard bullet clutch setup. This gets increasingly worse as it gets hotter and much worse if you stop in gear with the clutch held in for long periods.

As such, it is good practice to engage neutral just before coming to a halt. You will find it much harder to engage neutral once stationary. This is not unique to Enfields. I've had Japanese bikes from the 80's that were totally impossible to put into neutral while stationary with the engine running so I'm quite used to this. The 4-speed boxes are so clunky they actually have a neutral finder lever but even then, I've run into situations whee it got so overheated it wouldn't shift while stationary.

One thing I personally found that helps is to fit a Japanese clutch lever with a longer sweep. I think a lot of the issue is an inherant design problem. The clutch design has been modified over the years from a 3-plate clutch to 5 plates and I don't think the design now gives sufficient seperation of the plate stack to cope with thermal expansion. The longer sweep lever goes some way to mitigating this. I use one off a Kawasaki GPZ500. I found you can use the normal cable with one of these, you may need to very slightly drill out the area where the cable nipple fits if you decide to use one (literally a 2-second job).

[mauri]

part 90221 do expensive does help a lot.

whats also often overseen is to much tension on the primary chain, it should a least have 6mm of free play in the hard part of the chain.

and in combination with a bad quality clutch cable does a lot to.

this in combination with the way the whole clutch basket is build, gives inherent drag problems.

the best way to understand this is.
if you would look at a clutch on a modern motorcycle, when you pull the lever and make de engine/clutch turn.
you will see that the spacing is equal and constant.

do the same on a bullet, and you will see the whole thing wobble.
in extreme cases this can be so bad that i had to change the basket it self due to it being warped or the sprocket on the basket was badly warped, beyond repair(as mentioned in other posts the indian quality/consistency is questionable at te very least).

what helps also but is a lengthy process, is to look to the basket and plates for warping.

and even if they ar note warped, to mark the plates and move theme around till you find the least wobble.

i understand that this makes very little sense as if they are not warped why move them around, but is does, due to the unevenness/spacing in the teeth of the basket and plates! (again the built quality!!)

if you get it right it will work flawlessly, cold or hot.

[vince]

Hi, inclined to think your geared to high. Think how a clutch reacts if you pulled away in top gear! Vince

[Daiwiskers]

I have just searched for UCE primary chain and discovered that they have a ratcheting tensioner! Ask any Harley twin cam owner about ratcheting primary tensioners OK ask me
They lock up over tension the primary chain which in turn takes out the compensator on the crank which in turn takes out the starter and the primary chain
You can make out how tight it gets in pic

I wonder if something similar is going on here ?
I have now fitted a spring type tensioner and it has made the world of difference the clutch is lighter the bike run's a lot smoother gear change nicer all starter noise gone

Can a earlier type of tensioner be fitted to the UCE engine?

[Daiwiskers]

Go on tell me it's not a UCE is it

Handy tip about the lever my bullet clutch does play up now and again

Over tight primary can cause problems

Take care all Dai

[Adrian]

No, I think you've realized, Dai!

Mauri, it's a 5 speed box, not sure how 90221 would help!

Vince's point about having the overall gearing too high ties in with the O.P.'s earlier thread about pinking. With the extra power from a 612 engine there could be a good case for replacing the standard clutch with a Newby clutch, or our hosts' upgrade 90056A.

A.

[Rushour]

The 612 cc kit nearly doubles to stock BHP even in a mild format - the Albion clutch is basically a 1950's clutch which has had extra plates - it just is not going to cope in a hot climate, its expensive but I would upgrade to the splined clutch or even the belt drive. In my opinion its no good spending £2,000 on the engine and not upgrading the clutch and also while we are discussing this - the brakes too !

[Daiwiskers]

It's difficult being a old man who has forgotten more than I can remember

Got that out of the way

What would I do if the bike was mine?
Go on the best forum for the bike
Done that
Look at ideas given for both problems with the bike
Think are they both related (could be)
Over working the clutch pulling away due to the high gearing can cause clutch to drag
Overgearing can cause pinking!
Cheapest ideas swap out clutch lever to give more lift! Cheap can't think of any reason not to do it
Next cheapest fix go down on the gearbox sprocket this will lighten the load on the clutch and allow the motor to run more freely therefore reducing the tendency to pink

Do both!
while your in there check clutch is good pay a lot of attention to the primary chain tension check in many places adjust at tightest spot

Difficult to diagnose without having bum on seat

But are both problems being caused by fuel starvation causing the bike to overheat?

First check fueling then clutch lever then gearing

EDIT You know I think we're on the way to sorting this

[vince]

Hi, what sort of traffic is this used in? If stop start the clutch will be slipped a lot and will never get the chance to cool down. Vince