Forum

[steve a]

ive bought the above bike is it worth carryng spare cables on the bike like i used to on my 2000 350 bullet

[Daiwiskers]

Not sure if the B5 has a reputation for going through cables
But I haven't carried spare cables since about 1978 and the reason I stopped carrying them was when I had a clutch cable break the spare cable had frozen up despite being lubed and taped up before being taped to the fitted cable
Not something I would worry about now

Cheers Dai

[stinkwheel]

You can buy universal cable repair kits in a little tin containing a selection of inners and solderless nipples.

[steve a]

thanks for the iformation

[Rattlebattle]

I assume that these days you don’t get a set of spare cables like I did with my 2015 C5? I have already used the spare clutch cable; the original one lasted about three years ( leisure use only) before the inner cable strands started breaking. I bought a superior Hitchcock’s cable that I’ll fit when the spare original breaks.
As for a spare freezing, given that the cable passes through the grommet in the headlight together with the “choke” cable, having a spare in situ as in the old days isn’t really viable. If the 2018 cables are still rubbish my advice would be buy a decent replacement from our host and either fit it at home or wait until the clutch action feels gritty, then fit the replacement. The one I have is good quality and with proper lubrication and care and given the light clutch action is likely to outlast the bike.

[Wheaters]

Although this is drifting the subject slightly, I’ve always been surprised to hear from various sources that nylon lined cables don’t need to be lubricated.

In my experience, what kills any cable is corrosion. If an inner gets rusty, it becomes harshly abrasive and wears the nylon liner away in a very short time, then itself gets worn away against the outer until a strand breaks. Then it’s game over.

So these days I always use a good, oily lubricant on all cables and re-lube them using a pressure lubricator at least once a year, or every time I need to disconnect one for other maintenance reasons. I can’t recall ever having a cable problem since doing this. The cables on my 29 year old Honda 750 are the originals and still operate as smooth as silk and have no signs of rust, even at the exposed ends.

[Chris [Stockport]]

I've just replaced the broken clutch cable on my 2007 Bullet 500.

The advice that came with it, from Hitchcocks was that, being nylon, it doesn't need LUBRICATING, but they DO advise something to prevent CORROSION.... a slightly different thing. That seems to agree with what you say.

Over the years, I have had several break on me without much warning, and from the small amount of space/weight, I'd always carry one. It's a quick roadside repair rather than being stranded. And to be really quick, you don't really need to route it properly till you get home.

On both my Bullets I have routed them a bit simpler than how they came originally, hoping for fewer bends and therefore less stress.

[stinkwheel]

In my experience cables invariably break just below the top nipple due to a combination of corrosion, lack of movement between the nipple and lever causing repeat flexing/fatigue and a stress riser due to solder having wicked up the cable slightly.

I lube nylon lined cables with silicone. This keeps them moving nicely but still doesn't prevent the above. Ensuring the nipple is free to rotate in the lever prevents that.

[Daiwiskers]

Lubricate cable ends and pivot points with chain lube (also great for stand pivots)
Chain wax I use for lubricating door handles and locks in the house and also for car hinges

Fifty plus years of spannering you pick up some odd habits
Cheers Dai

[Chris [Stockport]]

I also removed the "sharp" edges of the lever, where the cable comes though the slot in the lever. Rounded them off ever so slightly. Hoping that might help as well.