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By Duke of Wybourne.
#88210
Usual next day service from our host, and delighted with them. I prefer this type of guard over the single fitting type, for the extra protection and security, and worth the extra £'s . They are straightforward to fit. Easiest way is to assemble the plastic guard to the alloy bar first, then attach the guard first with the long Allen screw that goes in through the bar end weight. Then loosely assemble the bar clamp, and line it up before finally tightening everything up. There are two "L" shaped pieces that secure the protector bar to the handlebar clamp which are "sided", so if you put it together loosely and you get it wrong, it's easy to swap over. I had no problems with any control cables/wiring fouling, and remember to check clearance with the screen and instruments on completion.
Imageand
Pic shows the bars without the guards fitted. The L shaped bits are the connection pieces between the main bar end and the handlebar clamp.
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By stinkwheel
#88221
If you have a hydraulic brake, just make sure the lever can return all the way out without fouling. The brake fluid generally returns to the master cylinder when the piston is fully in the rest position and they can start to "pump up" if it doesn't go all the way.

I had this happen after fitting bark busters to a supermoto once and it took me a while to work out what was going on.
By Duke of Wybourne.
#88224
stinkwheel wrote:
Thu Mar 05, 2020 7:27 pm
If you have a hydraulic brake, just make sure the lever can return all the way out without fouling. The brake fluid generally returns to the master cylinder when the piston is fully in the rest position and they can start to "pump up" if it doesn't go all the way.

I had this happen after fitting bark busters to a supermoto once and it took me a while to work out what was going on.
There's plenty safe room on the Himalayan, which I was assured about when I ordered them. :D

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