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By windmill john
#90297
Thanks for the suggestions Dai. I’ve got an in-line rebuildable clear fuel filter and all looks good there.

I’ll keep an eye on it. The fact I was at speed and it just lost power as if turned off... make me think electrical. I’ve found blocked fuel filters at least give you a bit bogging/rough running before dying.
By Daiwiskers
#90300
I keep going round in circles and keep coming back to the coil, even more so if it's a Lucas one

I do remember a bike that gave me the run around for month's, this is definitely not the same problem though
That one was a MZ 150 belonging to my then wife

Every time she took the bike out she pushed it home saying it stopped again I would go out kick it over and it would start I could do miles and miles on it, it never broke down on me she would go out on it and it would break down every time, in the end I found it she was just pottering around I was thrashing it,

The problem with it was the piston ring pegs were missing she would dawdle around on it the rings would line up and compression was lost,
Thrashing it it would make it's own compression therefore keep running

To this day I don't know why the rings didn't get caught in the ports but they never did

I liked that old bike she wrote it off in the end she hit a patch of ice dropped it slid through a massive pile of dog droppings :lol: :lol:
Unfortunately the bike was just about wrecked

Just after that the 125 law came in so I built her a TS 100 with TS125 running gear with bits from the local breaker
But that's another story

Going round in circles coming back to coil

Sorry for going off topic Dai
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By windmill john
#90306
The PVL coils are about £50. I know the Lucas are half that, but PVL is German and not sure who makes Lucas now.
If I’m feeling flush, I might add a coil to my stock. But hesitant if it doesn’t stop again for a while.

By the way, was that a sort of pun or play on words ‘going round in circles comes back to coil’ ;) :|
By Rattlebattle
#90307
If it isn't the coil could it be the electronic ignition? (I assume you have this fitted as you mention reverting to points). When the HES went on my R1100RS it would start and run fine from cold. This would last for around four miles and the ignition then died. I initially thought it was a blocked fuel cap because the distance before it stopped was so consistent. Once it had stopped it would only restart when the engine had cooled down. Eventually I flattened the battery trying to restart it and had to be recovered by the AA, for the first time in years. I do wonder if something in the electronic ignition is faulty? Just remembered, I had the same thing with a Boyer ignition I fitted to a T140V I had years ago: engine stopped, wouldn't restart then when nearly totally knackered by pushing it the b*stard started - back to points...
BTW 60 isn't old, it's the new 40 these days. I'll be 70 next year and regularly do the ton or more on my H*nda, on undisclosed private roads of course....Happy birthday.
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By windmill john
#90311
I originally said ignition or fuel block.

The ignition was fitted by a PO.

Financially, worse case scenario is a coil, then revert to points. If it still does it, new fuel cap! :roll:

I was very anti after market ignition, because years ago, there was one on my 1978 CB750F2 and when it got hot, it would stop.
The day I ripped it out was the day I was at a roundabout waiting to join. I saw an opening and accelerated onto the roundabout. After about five feet, it died. The van coming had to brake suddenly. I apologised and went back to points.
By Daiwiskers
#90316
Electronic ignition seems like a good idea but every time I have fitted it I have ended up going back to points
It's something I just don't like

Years ago I would have said go to a breakers and pick up a Japanese coil but I can't think of a newer Japanese bike that has coil ignition today

I have the PVL coil fitted, points, and 389 monobloc

In the spares box is a eureka ignition and a flat slide carburetor

The only time asbo30 has been on a recovery truck was when the advance / retard unit broke up

The only other time I haven't managed to get home was on a BMW R1100S when the wiring to the hall sensor melted

Lucas is now a Indian company unfortunately the quality seems to be the same as it was back in the 60s when it was made here

The Indian's can make good things if given a good place to make them look at the Hyundai i series of cars they are pretty damn good

Monoblocs seem to be able to hide water sometimes with the engine running at a fast tick over a gloved hand over the back of the carb can work wonders pulling that little drop of water out of hiding

You haven't told us what presents you got yet
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By windmill john
#90321
I sold an R1100RS to a chap. A few months later his stopped on the M25 with a HES fault.

Just discovered I’ve got a PVL coil and my tank cap vent is fine. Discovered the PVL when I changed my head gasket this morning.

As regards presents, I got a totally unexpected £60 from someone and decided now was the time I was going to get tool storage with drawers. Something I’ve wanted for a long time, couldn’t justify and currently have to lift my tool box of a tool trolley to get to other spanners. Not now, I can just pull open a drawer. :mrgreen: It’s a little luxury to make grabbing tools easier.
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By windmill john
#91013
Happened again today.... arrrggh! Just riding along at about 40 and blehhh, no power.

Still sparking and lights working....

Fitted a new PVL coil two weeks ago!!!

Our hosts say if it was the the Boyer, they just normally pack up. I don’t want to replace it, to discover it could happen again.

Undid the fuel cap whilst still coasting in gear, but no effect.

Whilst it’s silly to say “it cant’ be” but surely it can’t be carb, to suddenly cut out like ignition turned off....
By Daiwiskers
#91015
Fuel tap?

Electronic ignition module ?

Could be worth buying a advance / retard unit and complete points plate

Fit advance / retard unit at TDC compression stroke with the outer pins lining up with the screw Hole's the flat on the cam facing to the right

Fit points plate centred in the slots set gap to 15thou

That will be near enough to get it up and running

Fine tuning you can do later but you won't be far out

Connect coil negative to the wire from the points

Odd that this is happening in both dry and wet weather and hot and cold weather

Now thinking fuel supply or carb getting too hot
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By Adrian
#91016
I think that the only way that could be carb-related from your description is if you've got a persistent rogue piece of crud in there that gets sucked onto the main jet and drops off again when the bike stops. Not sure if this scenario is actually feasible, but if you give the carb not just another clean out but a totally fanatical clean-out (possibly involving an ultra-sonic cleaner) and it STILL happens at least you can rule the carb out.

My spare points and ATD have just gone to someone up in Scotland who wanted to replace a dodgy Boyer, so I can't help there, but don't forget Boyer isn't the only game in town where Electronic ignitions are concerned (OK, it's what our hosts sell), I've had good results with Pazon Surefire, there's another one out there, the name of which I can't remember, but which has all the electronics in the trigger plate, so no separate black box needed.

Did you replace the ignition switch? The one on my old Electra-X developed a loose/dry contact, I had to give the wiring a nudge to get it to start sometimes, though once running it would stay running until I turned the ignition off, rather than starting OK before cutting out while on the move.

A.

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