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By windmill john
#91037
Thanks Dai.

It was the gasket like below, mine is pink and fibrous.

The red area is the bit sat in the bowl, but as I said, it’s could possibly have popped in there when I removed the cover.
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By Daiwiskers
#91045
I was hoping your gasket was in one piece

I would have thought it would leak with the piece missing (I was convinced that that was the problem)

As your waiting for the gasket set to arrive you can remove the jet holder from the bottom of the carb clean that out water can hold there,the bottom hex is the main jet cover the hex above holds the needle jet both can be removed together and separated after removing, another thing to check is the fuel level in the carb when it's all back together

I was going to explain how to do this but then remembered that you have the extended cover so it's not as easy,

the standard cover has a pip on it you put a clear tube over the pilot jet loop it up past the dot turn on the fuel the level in the tube should more or less be level with the pip

Due to the design of the monobloc most bikes will not tick over on the side stand if yours does it could be a sign that the carb is flooding mine needs a 1.5"-2" block under the stand to tick over (not well or for long) I did once have a BSA A65 star twin that ticked over fine but that bike was a oddity not the norm

I will try to measure up a extended float cover and get the level for you tomorrow (I really don't think that it's a level problem unless the floats hooking up or the float isn't floating but both would cause flooding)

Inline fuel filter clean carb inlet filter should also be clean

I don't like to say this but if you have a choke fitted it works the opposite way than you would think, cable pulled to ride cable pushed to start (catches a lot of people out)

If no problem found in carb lose main or needle jet I would go back to points

Difficult to fault find like this Dai
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By windmill john
#91049
Thanks Dai.

It does idle-ish on the side stand. Well it can slowly dies then I blip it. I don’t often run it on the side stand, but you know how it is, sometimes you stop, get off because you’re fiddling with something, gloves etc.

Let’s see after a clean.
By Daiwiskers
#91050
I have measured the pip from the mounting screw hole centre's
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I can't see how it can run for 40miles before stopping if it's a fuel problem ? If nothing is stopping the flow of fuel, I jumped on the broken gasket as that piece could have blocked the float bowl port now and again causing fuel starvation

Now the Boyer I fitted one to a GS750 lowrider we built for my then Mrs! First time out on the bike it broke down with a flat battery about 30 miles from home

Got bike home checked the wiring could find nothing wrong

But fitted a superdream regulater/rectifier

Next time out same thing

Got bike back contacted Boyer they said it's a very reliable unit but can you return it

They replaced the unit as faulty I have to admit great service

Fitted the new unit all was good for a few months, then the bike would just stop it might run for 20 seconds or 20 miles but would always start immediately after

Enough was enough she wanted a piranha (spelling) ignition system fitting I said go back to points she said "I listened to you when you removed the electric star and said get the Boyer"

Anyway she bought the Piranha electronic ignition unit I sold it and without telling her refitted points

She spent the next two years telling people how good the Piranha electronic ignition unit is

I don't know what happened to the bike as she took it with her when she went

Dai
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By windmill john
#91066
:|

Thanks Dai.

Right, gaskets arrived today. Carb cleaned thoroughly.
I’ve ordered a new plug and plug cap; just to cover everything.
I removed the ignition switch, but it’s sealed jobbie. I still checked the contacts, but in my case I’m confident this would not stop the bike, for the bike to start a few minutes later.

So, new coil fitted, carb stripped, will have a new plug and plug cap. If it does it again, then the Boyer is off.

My bike has the below, power box also from Boyer, but as this is a regulator, surely it nothing to do with the ignition........?
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By Daiwiskers
#91074
Horrible red crimp connector there, you can get better one's with adhesive and heat shrink they use the same crimping tool and cost little just use jet lighter or hot air gun after crimping

Is that the main earth for the power box with the red crimp? if so give that a clean or if it's the negative connection for the power box try taking it to the battery

I know some people hate it(sorry Paul) but I try to hard wire whenever I can using solder connects Like these
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You just strip the wire slide connector over one of the wires twist the wires together slide down the connector centre the solder band squeeze it with pliers, then heat with jet lighter until the solder melts then shrink the tube down to the wire as you shrink the tube the glue melts, again not that expensive and they do a great job

Don't worry we will beat this Dai
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By Wheaters
#91075
Somewhere on here is the tale of how my 2004 350 suffered ongoing cutting out due to fuel starvation issues. There was fuel getting to the carb inlet stub pipe (OE Mikcarb 24) but the float bowl was emptying quicker than it could refill. It would run any distance as long as I didn't use full throttle. As soon as the bike stopped, count to ten then it would easily restart because the float bowl quickly refilled with the engine stopped.

The clue was that if I switched off the fuel tap immediately as the engine cut out, even before I'd rolled to a halt, it wouldn't then restart because the float bowl couldn't refill.

It nearly drove me bonkers (some say it did) but after stripping the carb any number of times I eventually discovered a slight restriction in the orifice below the screw in fuel inlet stub to the carb. It was caused by a fine piece of casting material which was sticking out below where the threads had been cut. It wouldn't come out by flushing, because it was still attached. I eventually poked a nylon spray nozzle for a WD-40 can in there and out came the piece of metal thread. Problem solved!

By then I'd ordered a 26mm Concentric carb, which I fitted instead and is still on the bike.
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By windmill john
#91078
Dai, that photo was taken last year, the first time I took the seat off. I took it off just after the first ‘stop’.
All connectors removed cleaned and Corrossion Blocked.

That red connector you see is, I’m sure I checked today, the earth from the Boyer red ignition box. And yes, I did remove it, clean, lube etc.

Wheaters I didn’t notice a restriction, I stripped the carb right down, carb cleaned and compressed air through all jets to ensure flow.

Still not convinced all I’ve done will rectify.... I’ll start saving for points etc!
By Daiwiskers
#91080
Don't forget the tiny pilot hole (I know it looks like 2 in the pic)
here
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Hard to take a pic of that one
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By Wheaters
#91082
Wheaters I didn’t notice a restriction, I stripped the carb right down, carb cleaned and compressed air through all jets to ensure flow.
Same here; it took a lot of finding. Blowing through with high pressure air didn't remove the problem.

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