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By Breezin
#86424
I'd like to adjust the chain tension, after 1,100 miles on the clock. A basic procedure, but I thought I would consult the Hitchcocks oracle on whether I should measure slack with the bike on its centre stand or with weight on the back wheel.

The famous Stuart Fillingham of YouTube has a very detailed video on the topic. He insists that weight on the wheel is vital (meaning in practical terms that a paddock stand is necessary if I'm not going to drop 200kg on myself) but I'm not so sure and haven't seen this said anywhere else.

The new RE diy guides are very limited and don't yet extend to chain servicing other than lube.
By papasmurf
#86425
Breezin wrote:
Mon Nov 11, 2019 5:37 pm
I'd like to adjust the chain tension, after 1,100 miles on the clock. A basic procedure, but I thought I would consult the Hitchcocks oracle on whether I should measure slack with the bike on its centre stand or with weight on the back wheel.

The famous Stuart Fillingham of YouTube has a very detailed video on the topic. He insists that weight on the wheel is vital (meaning in practical terms that a paddock stand is necessary if I'm not going to drop 200kg on myself) but I'm not so sure and haven't seen this said anywhere else.

The new RE diy guides are very limited and don't yet extend to chain servicing other than lube.
Putting weight on the wheel mean getting someone to sit on the bike whilst you adjust the chain.
Very few bikes have the gearbox sprocket on the same axis as the swinging arm pivot.
By Breezin
#86497
Handbook gives no guidance on this.
The tensioning of the chain is dealt with as part of rear wheel removal and reassembly, starting with the wheel off the ground. It doesn't seem to give a recommendation on the range of movement either -- or I'm not looking in the right place.
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By Leon Novello
#86499
Usually, the amount of slack measured in the centre of the chain, whether on the top or bottom run when on the centre stand, is nominated by the manufacturer after exhaustive (or not) testing, and takes into account that it will be correct when off the stand with a rider`s weight within limits, and is close enough to being satisfactory. :roll:
By RoSy
#86500
If you want weight on the bike and have a rachet strap handy, run it through beneath the swing arm and over the seat, just wind up the strap tension until it has what looks like a personal or two on it.
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By Presto
#86504
Working on the reasonable assumption that the chain will be adjusted by one workman operating unaided I’ve always understood the tension recommended figure to be with the bike on the centre stand and under its own weight – not with another person on the seat.

Done this for over 50 yrs without any snags. Good enough for me!
By Breezin
#86514
Leon Novello wrote:
Sun Nov 17, 2019 9:34 am
Usually, the amount of slack measured in the centre of the chain, whether on the top or bottom run when on the centre stand, is nominated by the manufacturer after exhaustive (or not) testing, and takes into account that it will be correct when off the stand with a rider`s weight within limits, and is close enough to being satisfactory. :roll:
That is what I would have thought, based on common sense, and what the manual implies, if only by omission.
This would mean that the Fillingham advice for the rear wheel to be weight-bearing may be incorrect.
By Lou E
#86519
Generally I tighten the chain up to about 3/4" play with the bike on the sidestand then have someone bounce up and down on it and see if it comes tight. Once I am happy with it I now have a number I can check while on the side stand or put the machine on the centerstand (where fitted) and get a chain slack number for that machine.

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