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[Al Crusader]

And Vince, what do mean exactly by contaminated brake shoes? Oil, or other dirt?

[Al Crusader]

I measured the stanchions, and the internal of the alloy legs. Steel stanchions slightly under 40 mm, bit corroded but I had cleaned them, and they are not oval. The alloy legs are spot on 40 mm. So there is room for tiny shake there, and I am surprised to see the wear on the steel tubes not the aluminium.

[windmill john]

And Vince, what do mean exactly by contaminated brake shoes? Oil, or other dirt?

Generally speaking, contaminated in this case will be oil, grease etc.

[Bullet Whisperer]

Here's one way to remove high spots ... https://youtu.be/8wto1SIbGUs

[Presto]

I agree that from what you say the root of the problem is more likely to be ovality in the brake drum or uneven wear on the brake shoes/linings. Until that is checked and if necessary rectified it won’t be possible to evaluate the effect on riding that the slight wear in the forks may induce.

[PeteF]

"Steel stanchions slightly under 40 mm"
How much is slightly?

[windmill john]

I have a balancer similar to this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-B ... SwlwtdsB1g

I would mount your wheel on this, then use the pointer (mine didn't have a pointer, but my Barney Bodgit coat hanger worked) to touch the inside of the hub, spin the wheel and monitor any run out at the end of your pointer.

Yes a dial gauge is more accurate, but not needed for this I'd say.


John

[ed.lazda]

BW, I like that approach and I think my Bullet needs like that to correct some front brake judder. I don't have one of your machines for driving the front wheel, and I wonder if it might be possible to achieve the same effect by riding the bike up and down a straight, quiet stretch of road. I don't really like the idea much, but equally I can't think of any reason why it should go horrendously wrong.

[p]

As you don't have a jig to spin the wheel on to test for ovality: just pop the wheel back on bike without brake backplate and give it a spin: use of a marking medium - pencil, felt marker etc. steadied against fork leg would show any discrepancy in drum, even a bit of wire and some bluetack or a clamp would give a visual of any variation in clearance when spinning wheel.

[Bullet Whisperer]

ed.lazda, riding the bike like that wouldn't really work because the brake needs to be adjusted so it is on on just enough for the high spots only to make contact with the [preferably old] brake shoes with the grinding paste on them. Small adjustments to the brake had to be made every few minutes when I was doing it in the video, but the brake was much improved after less than half an hour.