- Sat Nov 02, 2019 7:21 pm
#86338
Hey replies, did not get a message..
Ofcourse i have to defend my findings
I have more bikes with drum brakes, no problem.
Adjusting and setting is not very difficult, you can do it by ear or by eye/feeling with hand when you use the tube over lower lever method.
I am not a fan of 'drilling the trunion'but having the both hinges(whats they called) the same distance as between the cam axle centres, and both cams in resting position, yes.(143,something mms or so)
The brake plates i have, all have different tolerances (the most expensive the biggest) but all the same assymetrie; The distance from the central spindle hole to the both cam axle holes is different from each other.
This makes you have to add 1mm plate to the front brake shoe foot so you can mount and adjust both cams in parralel position, so force is equal at both braking shoes.
Even with both wheels i have, 9 sets of different linings, yes all made on lathe to diameter, it doesn not brake normally.
Sometimes theré s a period of almost decent braking, and that disappears in 1 drive.. sometimes re-adjusting (a symmetry) is needed, many time you don't get the same linings working ever again (graphite fouling from drum on the linings?)
Other thing is when installing brake cams half the width of the original ones, so 2ce the force on the linings, you cannot notice any positive effect, but more the opposite; worse braking?
Then you know something is not right.. besides all the faults in the brake plate, the croocked and bended brake cams, the material on the drums must be a cause.
The money i spent over the years onthis brake, i could buy a beautifull Grimeca 4LS from it, plus a set of good tires..
For the people who claim to have a decent working brake; What did you do to it??
When bike is in 3rd gear, i canpuul front brake hard as i can and accelerate..
