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[Leon Novello]

Then there is this secret advice.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[ric]

...and probably works well for high revving multi cylinder engines.

[jefrs]

We might notice that the merikans call it "break in", with perhaps some emphasis on the word "break".



Like modern cars, jap sports bike engines are run in at the factory. RE are not and it's not just the piston, all the bearings are tight. Everything is going to get hot until bedded in. Even the main drive chain beds in, stretches and needs adjusting at 1st service.

[Rattlebattle]

I've always felt "break in" is a more accurate description. I still feel that doing 35mph in top gear is cruelty to dumb engines if mine is anything to go by. I guess you either have the feel for what an engine is doing or you don't. I take the point about the gearbox needing to be run in too, but these have all ball or roller bearings don't they, so I don't think that is a major concern. A friend of mine remarked how mechanically quiet my C5 is, so iI doubt I've damaged it just by using the slowest speed in top that mine would comfortably do. Also I've used small increments past the 300 service (done by me to see what was on the magnets - not much). At 800 miles I've only touched 60mph briefly. I won't use full throttle at all until the engine is fully loosened up but if you don't give it more work it will never run in. Hence my preference for break in.

Re the rear brake I'm not too bothered as I don't use it much. Apparently they are prone to shearing the anchor if you do.!Oh, and don't forget to replace the negative lead either; it seems the failure rate is near 100%....

[ric]

Part of that particular rear brake problem is not helped by failing to applying the brake and rotating the rear wheel forwards after tightening the stub axle nut to sit the threaded section of the pivot pin firmly against the bottom of the swinging arm lug slot before sufficiently tightening its lock nut.

[jefrs]

rear brake - dunno about previous models but the current rear brake looks like it's built like a brick khazi.

[jefrs]

Rattlebattle & loosening up - I find the engine noise from the C5 UCE is a quiet putter, push rod chatter being normal. The exhaust note through the 50s is another matter. I felt the motor loosening up before 300 miles, it was stiff initially, while by 600 miles it had probably got to 90% run in. I shall probably give it to 1200 miles before giving it a full chat, it's just under 1000 now.



Keep half an eye on the cables, the originals are stretchy, the clutch does a tight turn in the casquette and the throttles do a u-bend under the seat. The throttle do self-adjust annoyingly. The english clutch cannot cable follow the tight path of the thin indian one, it had to pass through the casquette and down the exhaust side. The throttles and 'bistarter' can be eased out with a slight re-route from under the tank; the bistarter routes better if it doesn't go through the casquette at all (no room through the hole for it with the thick english clutch). The english clutch cable has much less give in it, the clutch switch doesn't allow one to start unless it is pulled all the way back to the bar even though the clutch has freed off; I feel a small mod to the switch peg coming on.

[jefrs]

re rear brake (ric) - well that seems to work, shed oil-rad heater got rid of condensation, the brake pivot now slides (car drum cylinders are retained by a spring clip, they slide and one can see the RE was designed to slide, I suspect the star washers were intended to go on the outside under the lock nuts) and the lever twitched back a notch or too, the pedal goes solid much sooner. Not tested on the road, I don't like riding in sleet.