Forum

[Dan H]

Kram, hopefully you can go through some of the basics on this step by step to get up and running, even if its just with limited knowledge.



As Mark says, the Jack Gray article listed in the technical notes section on this website is an excellent information source for the 250 unit engine and is a great way to familiarise yourself with some of the basics.



I would recommend going through the following to try and ensure there is nothing simple missed:

- Make sure you have a good known plug.

- Fresh fuel in the tank.

- A good fully charged battery.

- Double check that you have set the ignition timing on the correct stroke (remove the valve cover and physically check this is opening at the right time).

- Check that the push rods are not over adjusted and holding a valve open, good compression would indicate this is okay, but with the valve cover off its no time to confirm.

- Check the push rods are positioned the correct way around (they can be fitted incorrectly on the 250 Unit so the exhaust is opening on the inlet cam follower and visa versa, the correct way around is for exhaust push rod to come up from the inside of the push rod tunnel, and the inlet push rod to come up from the outside of the push rod tunnel).

- Check the connections on the back of the ammeter that they are secure (I have had a connection work loose here, which was enough to give a intermittent spark).

- You say you have a good spark, is this sparking all the time after each kick and not just a good initial spark with the first revolution of the engine after the ignition has been turned on? (if wired incorrectly you can get a good spark after the ignition has been turned on for the first turn of the engine).

- When you attempt to start the bike, try just turning the fuel on without tickling the carb and with no choke at first.

- I assume you have converted the bike to a 12V system now as you have a Boyer fitted? Have you got the ignition switch positioned to the normal running position and not emergency start (I cannot remember if it will still work on emergency start with this setup)



If you need more clarification on a particular point, post back on here and I am sure someone will help out.

[Beezabryan]

- Check the push rods are positioned the correct way around (they can be fitted incorrectly on the 250 Unit so the exhaust is opening on the inlet cam follower and visa versa, the correct way around is for exhaust push rod to come up from the inside of the push rod tunnel, and the inlet push rod to come up from the outside of the push rod tunnel).
This is most definitely worth checking

[kram]

Tha bike has been restored by a guy who has a British and classic bike restoring business in my home town and I am paying him, but he now says he doesn’t have time to get to the bottom of the problem as he has other customers waiting for their bikes to be restored. The message I got from him yesterday ask me to arrange to remove the bike and suggested that I look at someone who has knowledge of the Enfield engine,

[Presto]

kram - could we clarify that you are getting absolutely no firing in the engine at all - no hint of combustion - no sign of life at all?



Many of the things that have helpfully been suggested that you should check might mean the engine would not run well but would not mean that the engine would show no signs of life at all.



If we can clarify on that point it may help to narrow down the things that need mostly to be checked.



You WILL get this engine to go!! - and folk here will help you solve the problem.

[Presto]

We could say all sorts of things about how your 'restorer' has treated you so badly!!! - but that won't really help you at the moment. We're 'with' you!

[Bullet Whisperer]

Is your electronic ignition specifically for a Crusader? I ask because if it is for BSA / Triumph singles, it will fit, but the rotation will be the opposite way and could cause potential timing problems and appear to be correct, when it is not.

[Presto]

I'd never want to contradict BW but not sure of the info he has just sent - the Boyer kit our hosts sell for Crusader will be labeled - 'MICRO MKIV TRIUMPH/BSA single side points 12V' - it will have a kit number 00051 and on the 'black box' will be the number 181119. This is correct for a Crusader.

[Bullet Whisperer]

That's not a problem, Presto - on many [most, all?] Boyer stator plates there are two holes, with 'clockwise time' and 'anticlockwise time' faintly visible near them. I just wonder if the BSA / Triumph markings have been used and if so, this could be the root of the problem, as the timing will be all to pot. Regards, Paul.

[tribonnie]

Kram, have been there with a Crusader. Couple of thing, try bump starting rather then kickstart, stupid kickstart is not geared enough to get a good turn over and clutch can slip if to vigorous. If you have a Boyer ignition check wiring from pickup. Check black and white is connected to black and white and not the black and yellow. Very easy to get mixed up and if wrongly connected timing is 40 degrees out. Finally get some “easy start”. If it fires with it then it’s carb.

[PeteF]

Just another thought since we emailed Kram. Is the float height OK? Could be flooding the engine?