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[ric]

I found on mine that the cams were not central to the shaft so rotating them through 180* would effectively move the brake arm through half a spline to provide better positioning allowing the requisite parallel to be atained between the brake arms.

Some of the later cams are not even machined parallel along the same axis as the shaft so as the cam opens the shoe twists only making initial contact along the edge shown by the wear pattern in the Photo Posted: 03:59pm 3rd August, 2016.
However it is possible by examining the high contact wear point of the cam against the shoe to relieve it until a square contact face 90* to the brake plate is achieved.

[jefrs]

jawa-enfield, sorry the link to your pics is not working, it returns an error. If you cannot post a pic here (it is complicated) then just post just the link to the Photobucket place so we can see your pics.



Like I said, there's a black art to dialling slack out of these brake assemblies, and yes the brake plate must align concentric with the drum and the cams must move the shoes evenly and together, when fully assembled. Have you checked fork alignment?

[jawa-enfield]

Well, i hope there is an alternative brake plate (italian or japanese) because it does not make sense..
You can try to make both levers/cams touch and adjsut the connecting rod at this length, but when you pull on the primary-cam lever, the secondary only can move for a small distance, and vice versa, so what is the correct position?
you cannot tell!
Also the 143.5mm between the trunnion-centres is nice in theory, but only would work if that distance can be the same if the cams are in rest and both levers can be mounted in equal position, which they can't be!

so, there's no way of adjusting this brake like an other brand'normally manufactured'brake..

does anyone know an alternative??

[Tim NZ]

Eliminate as much lost-motion as possible (slop) and if need be by making new trunions that fit the lever ends. Setting the link-rod to the slightly 'long' side to accommodate some of the lost-motion will assist with bringing the cams into unison. But is only a compromise


For ultimate precision (racing) the cams both need to be 'clocked' and trued. Mean while following the instructions provided and a degree of patience will produce a front brake that will work with out future adjustment for the life of the shoes, and can achieve 'stoppies'.


The down side is that when set up for optimal retardation, the skinny little front axle is the limiting factor.


Central mudguard stays will fracture more frequently as a result of the torque reaction.

[Beezabryan]

"Central mudguard stays will fracture more frequently as a result of the torque reaction."
That explains how my stays have broken a couple of times. I was blaming crap indian metal or manufacture

[Dennis C]

Your probably right Bryan, mine on my Super Meteor where breaking regularly (probably from the same source), I made my own from "black iron" and they have now been on for a few years without any problem.