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[mauri]

if i am correct eBay item 301846302635 is lucas part 47507 as you can find in this list.



ATD units and application list



this on will need the most work to work correctly.

it has to much advance, so this needs to be adjusted.

then get a idler pinion.






get this reworked to fit on the ATD and aligned with the other idler pinions, rivet it back together, remount end ring.(not forgetting to check al part for wear and correct play)



and bob’s your uncle.

[Adrian]

If you look on the Electrex web site and bring up the kit you can download the fitting instructions and wiring diagram. Unfortunately the lighting output is a only 50W, so a 35/35W H4 headlamp bulb is an essential. If you have any queries about the kit's suitability you can always contact them, [email protected]

Meanwhile, RE India brought out their own CDI ignition on some home market 350s a few years ago. This was based on a modified 4 wire stator with one of the lighting coils replaced by a capacitor charging coil for the CDI unit. You can still get the bits from India via ebay, but it's not a straight swap as the factory changed the drive side main shaft on the crank for this. It's longer and the key way is in a different position.







A.

[WJS]

Thanks - this is all very reminiscent of problems I suffered with a Honda XL350 a few years ago. Split stators lighting coils etc. Great ideas really. I am surprised Enfield India have not put more effort into developing self generating ignition systems as the battery seems like an unecessary burden in a country where simplicity is appreciated and use of headlight is ...sporadic!!

[Adrian]

The CDI system above was only fitted to three 350 models for roughly the first half of the naughties, the Electra, and the Machismo and Thunderbird AVL models - later versions of these bikes all changed to 3 phase alternators with 12V DC TCI ignition. I agree it's a shame the self-generating ignition was abandoned fairly quickly. I did try hooking up a 2MC type capacitor to my Electra-X instead of the battery to see if I could get it to spark when kicking over, but no luck. I don't think the 3 phase alternator puts out enough power at lower RPM. A.

[WJS]

Thanks for all the help - right heres the clincher.
Assuming I can find a half decent SR1 and ATD for about the same price as the Electrex World Kit....
Which, would the team think, is the best bet? I need lights on the bike and the SR1/alternator set up would provide this but the Electrex kit would do all that and at a noticeable weight saving. Reliability and weatherproofness(?) is essential and with the Electrex kit buried in the engine I suppose it wins there too. But which is most likely to give dependable service, powerful spark at low revs, good starting, resistance to the elements and serviceabilty?
Its not really comparing eggs with eggs but which would you choose?

PS its a long distance trials bike not a Pre65/twinshock competitor.

[mauri]

the electrex kit will probably outlast the magneto.

due to the simple fact that the magneto gets it advance from a mechanical unit, which in time will get worn.

and by itself its and old concept.



plus the electrex kit has the ignition sensor on the crank, contrary to the standard distributor and the idler pinions which can have a lot of play.

the same eventual problem of to much play will occur with the magneto + wornout ATD.

unless you go all out and you build a compensating idler pinion!



so unless you where building a competition trails bike, where in some countries the rules are that you can’t use electronic ignition, hydraulic clutch, titanium,…..

or restoring a pre 60’s enfield or any other old bike.

but neither is the case for you.



the magneto also needs regular checkups.



while the electrex kit is a fit and forget kind of situation, just like the boyer kits are(also a good alternative).



so there is no real reason to go back.

[Adrian]

With the Boyer (and Pazon) kits being points assembly replacements, the issue of excess play in the train of 6 gears between the crankshaft and the magneto/contact breaker pinion can throw timing accuracy out by 10°. Much as I love the idea of a compensating idler pinion (!) I have found replacing worn pinions/idler gear bushes helps (you would also want to check the idler gear spindles as well as the cam spindles and cam bushes), and you can also make sure the ignition is timed at "full advance" against any remaining slop in the gear train by rotating the magneto/contact breaker gear anti-clockwise against the slack when the ignition timing is set. Seems to have worked OK on my BT-H magneto-fitted engine.



The Electrex Wrorld kit dispenses with all of that, though it would be nice if they could boost the lighting output a bit.



A.

[simon]

Yes as stated before its just a case of moving the points cam to change the direction of rotation on the SR1. I'd be a bit wary of having one without a advance and retard unit as the kickback can, as I discovered, shred the oil pump drive which is a big problem. I have to say whilst the advance unit was a considerable expense it has been with its SR1 mag the least troublesome ignition system I've had on a bike and the fixed coil design is so far ahead of the fixed magnet design that its very strange that it wasn't invented earlier.

[vince]

Hi, If its any use I fitted an sr1 magneto off a matchless and modified the atd by machining off the sprocket in a lathe , machined the centre out of the enfield mag gear and glued the gear ring onto the atd, its done over 10000 miles without comment. Vince.

[vince]

Hi, If its any use I fitted an sr1 magneto off a matchless and modified the atd by machining off the sprocket in a lathe , machined the centre out of the enfield mag gear and glued the gear ring onto the atd, its done over 10000 miles without comment. Vince.