Forum

[Dennis C]

Les, dcass at dcass dot karoo dot co dot uk

[Mark M]

Well done Les! I would seriously recommend Dave Fisher, his work is really good. Unless you can or want to do it yourself of course! If money is a consideration he will do a rebuild without cosmetic frills or the full monty with new external fittings and Lucas nameplate etc as per original which costs a bit extra.

REgards, Mark

[Dennis C]

As Mark says, Dave Fisher does an excellent job, it really depends what you need doing?, over the past five or six years I have refurbished a lot of Magneto's for myself and local VMCC members and have found that the only thing I need to have done is if the coil needs a rewind, all the other work I can do.

Armoto do a good rewind very quickly and at reasonable cost as long as you make sure they don't skimp on the winding's, for a full rebuild D F is probably the best around but don't be in a hurry they usually have a few months backlog at this time of year.

[Les H]

Thanks for the contact details Dennis will get in touch
and thanks again Paul for the recommendation....The choice is going to have to be made on who can replace or repair the broken input shaft....It looks like the tapered steel shaft fits on the front of the brass armature end piece by being held in with a brass screw fitted in from the armature side, which is only accessible after a complete armature dismantling job. The drive power is transmitted from the shaft into the armature via a tiny (about 1.5mm wide) ring of splines around the circumference of the tapered input shaft as it butts up to the brass end section and as said, the 4mm brass "screw"* holds it together. This appears to have sheared at this intersection leaving the screw snapped off in the body and in the shaft. I have searched intensively on the web and there is no mention of anyone having this problem or no images of it either. I can only assume the intense pressure required to free the sprocket tilted the shaft and snapped the screw....*I am only assuming it is a screw as I can only see the ends..I mentioned that the shaft looked off centre or was becoming bent during the removal but it actually looks OK...so that's a relief. Thanks....Will report back when I find out who can do the work....Regards.....Les

[Les H]

How do I do it???....Very sorry Mark, for some totally unknown reason I typed Paul...anyway thanks very much Mark for your help and recommendations...best regards....Les

[Dennis C]

Les, the ends are held to the coil with two long screws which pass through one end cap and the coil body into the other end cap just mark both end caps and coil so you can reassemble them the same way round, it's easy to remove the drive end and leave the points end in place.

[Les H]

Hi Dennis....I've just emailed you...hope you get it. The K2F I have has the screws screwed in from the points end so to get to them I will need to remove the oil fling disc and the slip ring and as far as I know to remove the slip ring I will need to unsolder the capacitor and disturb the coil? I'm OK with electronics and electrical work but I'm not sure the slip ring etc. can be pulled off that easily to reveal the screws....On top of that it gives me the impression that the drive side brass end cap is made out of two parts riveted together (2x small steel rivets visible) and the screw is below the "sandwich" of the two parts....Les

[Les H]

Take a look at this Dennis...I think I would have to do the same?:
http://brightsparkmagnetos.com/condense ... mature.htm

[Les H]

Also Dennis....look at this: http://brightsparkmagnetos.com/condense ... config.htm....
you will see the drive side end is a nightmare and is potted up with the capacitors....Also go to the bottom picture on the right hand side.....you will see the secondary winding is shown and is as said on my email just 4.7K Ohm!

[Mark M]

Les, no problem. Good luck! And I've just reminded myself that I need to get a K2F to Dave for the early Connie project (the one with the TT carb) that I recently acquired!

REgards, Mark