Forum

[Mark M]

Steve, there is a guy on Ebay selling a load of magnetos, this item, number 331340559401 may be suitable but if you look at his "other items" there are a load more. You might pick up a bargain. REgards, Mark

[John M]

Just to add to my previous post about the SR1, I got a 1956 Bullet fitted with a Lucas SR1 and no facility for an advance and retard. At first I thought it was the end of the world and that I would have to replace it at tremendous expense, but someone on here suggested that it should not present a problem on a slow revving thumper. *********** Two or thee thousand miles down the line I can say that they were right. I use my bike as a green-laner, plodding along Lake District tracks and it pulls cleanly from a near stall to maximum revs.********** The SR1 is a reliable and comparatively cheap magneto and all it's components can be swapped easily at home and they can be obtained at affordable prices. The only down side is as I said previously that you have to kick it like you mean it as any half hearted girlie kicks can result in an uncomfortable wrap to the calf.*********** Many two strokes have fixed timing and if I had a manual advance and retard I'm sure I would forget to use it most of the time anyway.

[Norm]

John, starting full advance as you say is not a problem, providing you have a very strong leg and get the piston in exactly the right spot, but as you say half hearted and you will know about it

[zippy]

I wouldn't attempt to start a manual advance machine in the advanced position again, after doing it on an outfit years ago. I remembered ticklers, airchoke, 3 ignition off kicks, find compression, ignition on, - Kick, bang, - tree! I'd forgotten to pull the lever back to retard position and the kickstart launched me over the sidecar into an hawthorne hedge.

[Alan R]

Yes, I'll second those comments about that woodruff key--------It's the TAPER FIT that transmits any drive forces..Any key is used to give a set timing position for whatever it's related to.......You might want to lap them together in the same way you would lap a cyl. head valve in.....Then wash in paraffin and blow-dry to give a nice, dull-grey colour....Use a nyloc nut to secure ....

[Alan R]

great fun bump starting my JAWA methanol fueled Grass-Track bike back in the day !!------15:1 compression ratio and a FIXED SPARK as well........YEEE--HARR !!

[simon]

It was was 1/2" before TDC on my old bullet but that is I believe a higher comp machine so 3/8" might be fine. I would suggest that you ensure that you check the gear train is driven up to the right advance rather than wound back as there is considerable slack in the typical old drive train and it could put you measurements way out.

[Stevefromleicester]

I took the advice and didn't file a key way in the timing gear after all. Set timing at 3/8 before tdc, topped up float chamber of
The brass pre mono bloc carb and it fired up. All the pin ions then spun off so next time I marked the timing pinion with a dot when at tdc and one at 3/8 inch btdc so it's somewhere between those two marks..
It will now run and Rev up but no oil to rockers so that's the next job. Timing case off again then to look at the oil pump.
There's a central bolt and washer that feeds oil into the crank ? So I need to check all the oil ways line up.
It revs ok despite having fixed timing via the SR1 magneto. And no kickback so far so maybe I've got it set too far advanced ?
for trial use magneto is fine but as I plan to ride e wayfarers track in North Wales and similar in that area I presume I have to have a brake light so will prob fit a sealed battery and switch and just charge it up before I go out. A sort of electrical total loss system.
Thanks for all the advice. Stevefromleicester

[Mark M]

Steve, it takes a long time for oil to appear at the rockers. It helps if you fill the timing chest through the oil quill bolt. It is unlikely (but not impossible) that oilways in the timing chest are blocked. Do not run the engine with the timing cover off, there will be no oil going to the big end!!! Check the fit of the oil quill bolt in the seal on the end of the crank, the original seal was cork (which is ok,) but our Hosts offer a modern neoprene replacement. If the engine's timing is advanced it is more likely to kick back so it sounds as if you are about right. Finally, you do not need a brake light or a reflector on a bike with no lights fitted but you might want them for safety. My 1959 Works Replica 350 Bullet was never fitted with any of this. My MOT man always says "VOSA tell me to advise you not to be on the road after dark, stupid isn't it!". How did you get on with the magneto? Sounds like you've got some good rides ahead! REgards, Mark

[Scalyback]

If you are going to go with a tail light for safety, look for an LED replacement for a normal bulb, They use a fraction of the power, and your total loss battery system will work 5 or so times longer!