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[PeteF]

Mmmmm....sounds to me like it's trying to kick back. I don't know much about Electras - can you alter the timing? Might be worth retarding a tad and see if it makes a difference.

[theWoosh]

Re timing - I don't think there's much I can do to it but that's why I was wondering if the original upgrade replacement to the TCI (which I think was released to fix this very problem), or fitting Hitchcock's replacement TCI, might fix the problem... Anyone?

[Frank]

As per my previous posting regarding the TCI. You can adjust the timing using the stepped woodruff keys for the rotor but since there is no way of checking the timing without cutting an inspection hole in the primary cover it will have to be done through trial and error, until you think it performs better. You will never know for sure when it's right or in fact if it was wrong in the first place. The first thing to do is to get back to where it was when you got it, i.e with a working starter, then think about the next move if it's necessary.

[Frank]

A couple of simple things you could try first is to charge the battery and change the spark plug. See how it kick starts then.

[theWoosh]

Hi FOlks
I finally got round to charging the battery (no difference) and replacing the plug (with an Iridium BR9EIX 3981) as suggested. Managed to kick-start it first time, but subsequently not able to do it again.

I removed the primary cover and there was no sign of any debris - the cog from the starter looks fine from what I can see of it. Here's a pic:

http://www.interxmedia.co.uk/?p=160

Put it back & replaced the oil with 15w40.

Still no luck with kicker, but it starts 50% of the time with the electric start the other 50% of the time it doesn't engage with/turn the engine, and often makes such a horrible clackety-clack that I am worried something is getting smashed to bits.

I asked my local garage if they would replace the sprag (if it is indeed broken - I think so but how can it start the bike some of the time quite happily?) and they said it wasn't worth it - just as many of the folks on this forum...

I am still not clear if replacing the (original black) TCI with a green one (are they still available) or a Hitchcocks upgrade would help fix the problem so I could replace the sprag if needed.

If I can't use the electric start and I can't reliably kick-start then I am in trouble
Currently this is my (mostly unsuccessful) kick-start procedure:
1. switch on fuel and pull out choke (it doesn't start at all without choke)
2. pull clutch lever and kick it over a couple of times
3. pull the decomp lever down - it only goes half-way at this stage and doesn't seem to have much effect - and push on kicker for a minute or two until it starts to turn.
4. return foot and kicker to top and hold decomp lever down until motor starts to turn again - at this point the decomp lever moves all the way down and feels like it is working.
5. release decomp lever, return foot and kicker to top and kick down.

...at this point it may start or more likely it will just turn over without starting but also quite often it will go 'clack!' and kick-back.

I could really use some help on this as I am stuck with a bike I can't really use at the moment - either I need to get it kicking reliably or I need to get the electric start working safely - or preferably both! I can't even cut my losses and sell it to go back to a jap bike as no-one will want a bike that won't start and makes noises like it is self-destructing...

[theWoosh]

PS how do you format posts and include images? everything I type comes out in one para and image links get broken
I've tried using Chrome & Firefox and neither of them retain formatting...

[Frank]

I suspect you have missing or damaged teeth on the sprag so that sometimes it engages sometimes not. Turn it over with the kickstart until you feel compression, ease it just over, release the kickstart to let it return for maximum travel and give it a full hard kick down. Why pull the clutch lever? Unless you have horrendous clutch drag the engine won't turn over at all. The gearbox -engine drive will be broken.

[theWoosh]

Hi Frank
Thanks for responding - engaging clutch and turning engine over was suggested elsewhere as a way of pre-priming fuel to the engine....?
I must have read a dozen different starting regimes - all of them different. I'll try going back to your simpler routine when my leg is recovered

[theWoosh]

I'm having a bit more luck kicking it over,as long as I'm patient about waiting for it to decompress so I can kick it, although it quite often clanks and kicks-back.

I suppose the issue that then still remains is why doesn't the decomp lever do it's job? It seems to make no difference whether I use it or not to get to TDC - it only goes down half-way and takes just as long as if I just keep my foot braced on it. I saw somewhere else someone saying that the decomp doesn't really work on this model.

It does do enough to stop the engine though, which I do because someone said somewhere that this makes it less likely to damage the sprag when stopping - it certainly makes a nasty clack when I use the kill switch or ignition key to stop it...

So should I try adjusting my decomp and get it working better or is that a dead loss?

Thanks for your input folks - maybe I'll get there in the end!

[Frank]

The decomp lever is pretty useless. I've forgotten about it. It might benefit from adjusting the cable but I doubt it will make much difference. Pulling the clutch lever in to prime the engine with a couple of kicks is a waste of time as the engine won't turn so fuel won't be sucked through. With the CV carb as it sounds as if you have you need little if any throttle. If using electric start give it short bursts, it will more likely fire when you release the button and then it's a matter of catching it with a little throttle to get it going.